Early mornings

I may not be walking but the Camino is so often in my head. 

And on seeing this  it brought up memories of being on the Camino in the early mornings

Five whole years ....

Just over a year ago we were back in logroño to retrace our steps on the Camino Frances for just one of the stages as far as Burgos. 

Just over two years ago we had just completed the Camino Ingles and the additional walk on to Finisterra. 

On this day three years ago I was on the camino Primitivo.  Having spent a cold and damp night in a lovely auberge this dog accompanied me as I set out that morning.

Four years ago we had just completed the Camino Portuguese and were enjoying a day's break in santiago. 

Five years ago I was with the Famous Camino Five as we arrived for our first stay in a big city  - Logroño

Back to where my story today started - life's rich circle. 

This year is the first year I am not walking and am missing it very much, but it is very alive within me and I know that I will be back out there again, especially as Jane and I are thinking of doing the first stage over the Pyrenees again next year. 

Porto & Betanzos 2011 / 2013

Still holding fast to my Camino memories.

Four years ago Jane, Sussi and I were on just starting out on the Camino Portuguese from Porto...

And then just two years ago we ( Jane, Kerri and me) were well on our way down the Camino Ingles-  Pontedeume to Betanzos, a short stretch of around 21kms. 

Such wonderful times, such great memories.

Remembering 'The Ingles'

Two years ago on this very day we were walking the Camino Ingles. A less oft travelled Camino and one of which we met fewer people, but nonetheless some wonderful new friends all the same.

ON the 18th June 2013 we started out in Ferrol, dead early in the morning, having found the first way- markers the day before.

Ah such memories, and how I wish we were walking this year too. This will be the first year I've not ventured onto one of the Caminos since 2010, but next year perhaps we'll hit the Pyrenees again....

Burgos - party town

Our last night on the Camino was spent in a small apart-hotel in the centre of Burgos. We had decided that having walked somewhere around 140kms we deserved a little luxury and booked into the Maria Salome - at 55€ for the night it was good value and perfectly located just off the Plaza Mayor. Little did we know when I booked it on-line that it was owned by the same place as where we had our dinner in 2010 with Laila before she flew back to Sweden and we walked on. 

As we came into Burgos we realised that we had arrived during one of their big fietsas and the streets were packed with people going about their fiesta business. It gave the city an exciting and energizing atmosphere. 

Unfortunately as our bodies were still working to the Camino time-clock (awake at 5 bed by 9) we didn't manage to stay up that late to enjoy the full experience, but from what we did see Burgos was clearly a party city. 

DAY SIX - Ages to Burgos

The sign as you come into Ages days let our town enchant you.  And oh boy can it!

Whilst wandering around town soaking up the energy I took a load of photos but when I tried to play them back later they had all got errors.  Not one of my photos of Ages after the sign has been saved successfully.  I'm guessing the town wants to keep its secrets. 
I had the best night's sleep on the Camino, this time,  in our funny old dormitory in the eaves of the pink house.  We even slept in till six!

Once again I wasn't keen to leave Ages and had heavy feet. Our morning starts are usually quite quick.  This morning we took it more slowly than ever before, my mind was constantly slipping back. 

Around nine we stopped for breakfast and first of all were joined by a friendly little dog who was more than happy to share my croissant, and actually ended up having more than me.  Then another couple, well 3, pilgrims joined us,  and as we got into conversion it turned out that one of them, Cue (Q) was living in Brighton! The others were from Cambridge (Anna, originally from the Ukraine) and Mississippi (John-Mark).

Arriving in Burgos we found our hotel (us a bit of luxury for our last night) and we were amazed that it was owned and run by the same place as where we ate in 2010 for Laila's last meal!

Burgos is currently in the middle of a summer fiesta and is very busy.  It is a beautiful city but a little overwhelming after being on the Camino for a few days.  I thought I would be keen to keep walking when we got here but have found that I am content to stop and am looking forward to going home. ...

DAY FIVE - Belorado to Ages.

The start was a bit difficult this morning with a painful ankle. Then a voice said 'take it easy'.  I listened and changed into my sandals (yes with socks) and slowed my pace. The pain subsided and became more manageable allowing us to arrive here in Ages about an hour ago. 

The Walk between Belorado and here is spectacular.  Normally the views are breathtaking but today most of the way was shrouded in cloud.  So we couldn't see far ahead but what we could see and feel was awesome.  Energy fills this area of the Camino and my hands were tingling/vibrating as we walked through the woods and Meadows. 

We are in same albergue as 2010 which is fantastic.  My whole body is picking up on the energy here and I know that I will be recharged before we leave.  Feeling relaxed is an understatement.  I am so chilled I don't think anything could rile me.  This is such a wonderful feeling. 

There is a storm blowing around the mountains which is adding to the electric atmosphere.  If it comes this way I think we will be in for quite a show. 

Later I shall visit the church.  If you've read my book you'll know the why and wherefore of that.  If you haven't 'why not'?

Memories  and memories of memories are filling my head,  some from our last visit, others from who knows when.  But I know I've been he me than just the once.

Will I return again?  Let's see what I find in the church. 

DAY FOUR - Santo Domingo to Belorado

Despite a poor night's sleep and a bit if rain it's been a pretty magical day. 

To keep up our spirits as we walked we sang a lot along the way and coming into Belorado substituted the town name for others in various songs. .. Can you get these. ..
You can check out anytime but you can never leave.  Welcome to. ..
Or
....... Why don't you come to your senses,  you've been out riding fences. ..

And as we walked beside the road for a part of the way we waved to lorries that were passing (like kids in the back of a car) eliciting many waves in return and quite a few honked horns. 

Arriving at our favourite albergue from our last visit we settled in and decided to eat in the restaurant here too. As we ordered the song changed to 'conquest of paradise' our camino song from 2010 bringing a tear to my eye.  What better message that I am in the place I should be at this moment.  This was followed by Bette Middler singing the theme from beaches. I crumbled!

We have spent the afternoon playing with the dog (a new,  four month old,  addition since our last visit called Kira), feeding the rabbits and chickens and then snuggled under blankets on the bed. 

This place still holds all the magic it had in 2010. The owners are just as delightful as we remember and the energy is more than special. 

Tomorrow we head for Ages where I expect to find more amazing energy both along the way and in the tiny hamlet itself. 

DAY THREE- Najera to Santo Domingo (Oh what a night)

Last night we didn't get a lot of sleep as there was some kind of local fiesta going on until the wee hours.  Between 9 and midnight a band was playing up and down the streets loud enough to fill the town with its music.  And even when that seemed to finish people were raucously partying right outside the albergue until at least 3 am.

Despite the wildness going during the night ruining any possibility of sleep we were still up at 5.30 and back out before six.

Something I love about the Camino is the cameraderie. Everyone says hello and wishes each other 'Buen Camino'. Knowledge and stories are freely shared as are provisions and offers of help.  Despite the mix of languages everyone tries to communicate the best way they can.  This may simply be with nods, smiles and gestures,  or more often than not in each other's languages.  English more often than not is the lingua franca, spoken in so many different accents. I love hearing the different ways people try to express themselves in my language. 

If possible I try to at least acknowledge others in their language,  be it French,  German, or Spanish.  This is most often well received but sometimes causes a little confusion.  No one ever mistakes me for Spanish but today when I greeted a French'
woman with 'bonjour' she asked which part of France I was from, explaining later that my French accent was excellent.  If only that were true of my Spanish accent. 

Our walk this morning was full of the sights,  sounds and wonder that is the Camino. Nature at its best buoying us along. Even a light rain as we entered Santo Domingo didn't dampen our spirits.  I may have mentioned this before but it really does have a magic of its own  why else would we return every year? 

We are now comfortably ensconced in the albergue that we stayed in back in 2010, which is just as we remembered,  although it isn't quite as bright and new as it was back then, but I guess that we too have aged a bit. 

Tomorrow rain storms are predicted along the way so we shall suit up accordingly.  We've enjoyed walking the way in the rain before and no doubt shall do so again. ...

DAY TWO - Logroño to Najera

About thirty kilometres covered today depending on which guide book you ascribe to. 

We started off with a climb out of Logroño,  and were the first to leave the albergue, which was far from full.  We have noticed that the way is much quieter this year compared to 2010.

The terrain had been varied and beautiful.  We have had to stop many times to admire the views.  Mountains,  lakes,  forests.  I think we've pretty much seen it all today. 

Arriving in Najera we were relieved to kick off our shoes and get in the showers. We've had a quick look round but have returned for a lie down before venturing out later for dinner. 

The challenge for me this year is to stay present.  With so much going on in the next couple of weeks I'm being careful to try to push that aside and stay in the moment.  So far so good.  There is so much to see and think about as we walk that the projects of the near future are staying there.

W ere checked into another comfortable and well maintained albergue which only opened in 2012. Friendly,  clean and ideally located by the River and directly on the Camino.

It's much busier here and our room is full of cyclists.  Hopefully none of them snorks as a good night's sleep is what we need ready for tomorrow's walk. ...

Day ONE - Barcelona to Logroño

Up at 5am to catch the first train to Barcelona to board or train to Logroño.  All went swimmingly without a hitch, despite previous worries about cutting it fine. Surprisingly the train was quite busy - most people on their way home after a night of clubbing. 

As we pulled into Logroño I had a sudden attack of nerves.  Not sure what that was all about,  but it may have had something to do with our stop off here 4 years ago when we really didn't gel with the city. 

We arrived at the albergue a little early so they let us drop off or rucksacks while they finished cleaning and we went off for a coffee. We returned about an hour later and checked in.

It's a wonderful place.  Only opened last year by a guy who has walked the camino 9 times, and I thought we were gluttons for punishment.  The hosts are very very friendly and helpful and the place has a relaxed and welcoming energy.  It's clean and tidy with everything we could need for an overnight stay.  Pretty much luxurious as far as albergues go.

After checking in we've done a bit more sightseeing and actually love the city.  We clearly missed the best parts last time.
Tapas and a glass of rioja for lunch and we were well sorted.

It's been a great start to this year's adventure but now we are both pooped and are going to spend the rest of the evening relaxing on our bunks. Happily the place is far from full and very peaceful so it looks like a good night's sleep is on the cards.

Although we're both tired we're in high spirits.  Tomorrow the walking begins and we are both keen to get going. 

Bags packed, ready for the off ..

Well almost.

Nearly everything is laid out on the bed ready to go into the rucksack, or bum-bag. It looks like a lot, but won't fill the rucksack and hopefully won't weigh too much. In previous years I've managed to keep it down to around 7 kilos. 

-

This morning I popped round to decathlon to get some rubber tips for the walking poles so that they are less annoying when walking in town or on the roadside.  

I've just called the first albergue to confirm our reservation, the receptionist even spoke English, which surprised me a little, and also confirmed the one for Monday night too -so we're sorted for beds for the first two nights, so don't need to rush too much. 

Later this evening I'll pick Jane up at the airport. She's bringing the official Camino 2014 T-shirts and caps. W can then both finish our packing, make a snack for the train journey and hopefully get a  bit of sleep before we have to be up at dawn to start our adventure.... Wish us luck!! 

The Plan

AS the French Air Traffic controllers strike is off our walk is ON, baring any other disasters, of which there will be none!

Tomorrow Jane arrives from Gatwick into Barcelona at ten past eight in the evening. Once i have picked her up we will indulge in a light dinner and relax, going to be early, although I'm not sure either of us will sleep much.  Before bedding down we will be preparing sarnies for the train journeys in the morning.

On Sunday we have to get to VnG train station for the first train at 06:19 to get to Barcelona Sants to catch the long-distance train to Logroño at 07:30.  The journey is just under four hours and we should arrive in Logroño around 11:22, according to the RENFE timetable. 

For the Sunday night we have reserved a bed (litera) in the Check-In Rioja Albergue. Once we have checked in we will have time to play tourist in Logroño and maybe get a couple of stamps on our credenciales.  

The rest of our plan is as follows: (distances are approx)

Monday  - Logroño to Najera 30kms (Staying in the Puerto de Najera Albergue)
Tuesday - Najera to Santo Domingo 22kms  (Staying in the Cofradia del Santo Albergue) 
Weds    - Santo Domingo to Belorado 23kms (Staying in the Cuatro Cantones Albergue)
Thurs    - Belorado to Ages 28kms (Staying in the El Pajar de Ages Albergue )
Friday   - Ages to Burgos 25 kms (Staying in the Hotel Maria Salome) 
Sat       - Flight from Burgos back to BCN. 

To say we are botha little excited to be going back over well-trodden ground from our adventure in 2010 is an understatement. We are like a couple of kids waiting for Santa on Christmas Eve! 

And this is the route, more or less

Ver Camino Frances Stage 2 - Logrono to Burgos en un mapa más grande

Listo

Listo = Spanish meaning ready! 

Well, I've finally got round to making my list of essential items to take with me, and happily it's not a large one. So once I've put all these things in my rucksack I'll be ready for the off. 

I can't find my Brierly guidebook which I used in 2010. However, it was an older copy and it was already out of date then. I am sure there will have been some changes on the Way -  and it'll be interesting to see what. I'm not worried about not having a guidebook though. As I remember it was well signposted and on the whole pretty easy to follow (famous last words!).

Last night I had a dream I was already walking and met a woman I had met back in 2010 whilst on the same path. I don't do dream interpretations much, but am guessing that the Camino is so much in my head at the moment that it's quite natural to dream of it too. If on the other hand you think this is a message for me do tell!!

Yes Siree I am ready to go ...

ATC

Been a bit preoccupied today due to the French Air Traffic Controllers strike, and how  it might affect Jane's arrival, and whether she will be able to join me after all.  And I'm sure we're not the only 'pilgrims' that are on tenterhooks concerned whether they will make it to the Camino this year or not. 

Do they seriously think that by disrupting travel across Europe that they will get the support of the public? So many people work for fifty weeks a year to get a couple in the sun only to have their flight cancelled because of them. Blood boiling!! A week of strikes- and always in the summer. 

Yes we notice what they are doing and their cause gets airtime, but who, in the long run are they hurting? - The government who are imposing cuts? - Nope. The man in the street - Yep  

'Take it easy' Tone advises 'Watch your blood pressure.' 

Anyway rant over, but I guess you can see now why I've been a little preoccupied today, and the annoying thing is we won't know whether Jane's flight will be cancelled until the very last minute - so chums cross your fingers and say your prayers that she'll make if safe and sound and our adventure will go ahead as planned, otherwise it could be a solo venture for me again. 

I've been watching the Easy-jet 'flight-tracker' page and although some of the delays from Gatwick to Barcelona have been substantial, there was only one out of six flights cancelled on that route today. I live in hope .... 

Just BE

As our departure date looms ever closer one of the things I am really looking forward to is being back in nature. Walking in the woods, through the fields and meadows, and even beside the roads with nature all around makes my heart sing. The sounds of the birds and insects going about their business and very little else assaulting my ears is something I cherish. Disconnecting from the daily 'grind' is a bonus - boots on, rucksack packed and walk - no more worries.... 

Whilst surfing this morning I saw this and think it just about says it all: 

That song again

This morning I woke with a song in my head, and heart, and for anyone that's followed my Camino journeys before you may have an inkling just what song it is. 

In 2010 Sussi, the crazy Finn, played us all 'The conquest of Paradise' by Dana Winner one evening and it became our song of the Camino without further ado. This was the song that started my day, so I just had to fire up the PC and play it for real .

The lyrics are wonderful and inspirational and kind of capture what the Camino is about for me, and by Camino in this instance I mean my life path:

There shines a light in the heart of man,

Defies the dead of the night,

A beam that glows within every soul

Like wings of hope taking flight.

A sunny day, when a baby's born,

The little things that we say,

A special sparkle in someone's eye,

Simple gifts, every day.

Somewhere there's a paradise

Where everyone finds release,

It's here on earth and between your eyes,

A place we all find our peace

        Come - open your heart,

        Reach for the stars,

        Believe your own power.

        Now - here in this place,

        Here on this earth,

        This is the hour.

It's just a place we call paradise,

Each of us has his own,

It has no name, no, it has no price,

It's just a place we call home.

A dream that reaches beyond the stars

The endless blue of the skies,

Forever wondering: who we are?

Forever questioning: why?

        Come - open your heart,

        Reach for the stars,

        Believe your own power.

        Now - here in this place,

        Here on this earth,

        This is the hour.

There shines a light in the heart of man,

Defies the dead of the night,

A beam that glows within every soul

Like wings of hope taking flight,

Like wings of hope taking flight.

I can feel the energy building for our next adventure, and I am being swept away by it. Not long now ...

A week today ...

... at this time we'll be in Logroño, excitedly waiting to start our Camino -my fifth and Janey's fourth. 

Next Sunday at 06:19 we will be catching a train to Barcelona where we catch the fast train (at 07:30) to Logroño. We are planning to make sandwiches for the journey, and are going to enjoy this journey as much as the walking one, just like we did back in 2010, when the train journey was Barcelona to Pamplona. 

Arriving in Logroño at around 11:30 we will be cheking into the new albergue there - The 'Check-in Rioja' which I found on the net recently and was really impressed with how it looked. The albergue we stayed in in 2010 didn't greatly impress us, but I'm sure this one will hit the spot. http://www.checkinrioja.com

We'll then have the afternoon and evening to play the tourist and have a good look around, have a siesta, and get to bed early for our very early start the next day. 

Back in Training

The only time I've done a load of training for the Camino was when we did our first, back in 2010 when I walked quite a bit beforehand in the mountains around us, here in Catalunya. This year, what with our late decision to go on another Camino and other constraints training will be minimal again. A few walks along the coast should up my fitness level a little, then the first day back on the Way will sort us out. 

This morning I set out on a walk along the coastal path to Sitges with Karen, also on hols from Supernova. We met at the monument at the bottom of the Rambla, and after sorting out Karen's parking we were on our way.

The weather wasn't too hot, enough to make us sweat a little when climbing the slopes, but cloudy enough for protection. 

 It was great to walk, chat and think, with a like-minded person. IN no time we were in Sitges, where we had a light lunch of tapas. 

I left the decision about our mode of transport back to VnG down to Karen. She bravely chose walking, so back along the coast we walked. I'm pretty sure Karen enjoyed the walk and the chat, but I'm guessing she may be aching a bit in the morrow! Well it is around 20kms there and back, mas o menos, almost a full Camino's day walking. 

Cuatro cantones, Belorado

During our five day walk this year we will pass through Belorado, the town of our favourite Albergue - The Cuatro Cantones, where we spend a wonderful Sunday four years ago. The place is peaceful, the hospitaleros/owners friendly and super-helpful, and the food was delicious- we ordered and partook in the communal dinner, and the chef made me a special vegetarian meal, which was much appreciated. 

As well as taking a look around Belorado during the afternoon we also spent time relaxing by the pool. The beds were comfy and the whole place clean and tidy -just the way we like it.  All of this is of course described in my 'bestselling book' - The Magic of The Camino.  (click link for details)

Anyway excuse my rambling - the reason I'm going on about this albergue is because we thought we'd try and see if we could book ahead for a bed there this year, so I sent them an e-mail and have just had  a lovely reply confirming our stay.  Woo-hoo. It looks like this is going to be a rather cushy little walk! 

Interestingly we stayed there on the 4th July last year, this year we will be there on the 2nd. 

More details about the Cuatro Cantones can be found by clicking the link to their website HERE