Wayside delights

Walking the Camino is perhaps the most incredible experience of my life (so far). For oh so many reasons, not the least that this semi-couch potato got up and walked about 800kms. 

All along the Way there are delights to be enjoyed, for a whole variety of reasons. 

Whether this be a wayside bar offering sustenance and a seat early on in the day  (FRANCES)

A wine fountain with wine (gratis) for weary pilgrims. The fat the awe passed her at around seven thirty in the morning did not stop us partaking in the Camino tradition. (FRANCES) 

Sometimes just a shadey line of trees and bushes was enough to make me appreciate how wonderful things were (FRANCES)

Or a bench under a tree in a place far out of the way. Here I left my initial in stones (I wonder if it's still there?) (FRANCES)

 A wayside cart offering a range of goodies, with an honesty policy - donate if you take. This place was a godsend. (FRANCES)

 Local arts and crafts are often there when you look in the small hamlets and villages, and often raise a smile. (FRANCES)

 And of course the beauty of the wildlife along the way. Sunflowers were in general out of season when we walked but these were magnificent. (FRANCES)

 A fruit stall loaded with my favourite - raspberries -really felt like a gift from the universe that we made the most of... (FRANCES)

 and of course Spain can make some of the most delicious of afternoon cakes and puddings...(FRANCES)

A view of the coast and a cooling breeze blowing off the Atlantic (PORTUGUESE) 

 Interesting structures and sculptures (PORTUGUESE) 

Traditional local food - Pimientos del Padron (PORTUGUESE) 

 Views to die for (PRIMITIVO)

Interesting buildings (PRIMITIVO)

 Wayside verges full of colour (PRIMITIVO)

 Locals going about their daily business and still offering friendly support (PRIMITIVO)

An impromptu group task or gathering (it was cold and wet that morning) (PRIMITIVO) 

On each of the Caminos I have walked so far there have been wonders, small and large to take my breath away and make me so happy to be alive. 

Of beds (and bugs)

Having just read a post on Facebook about an albergue being closed on the Finisterre route because of an outbreak of bedbugs my mind has been drawn to one of the most important considerations on the Camino- of the beds, bedding and those infernal bed-bugs.

I have sampled quite a few of the albergues on the French Way, the Portuguese Way and the Primitive Way I am so pleased, and relieved, to say I have not once shared my bed with a bug- well not knowingly and have definitely had no bad effects if  I have done so unknowingly.

The beds themselves vary from albergue to albergue. In some places they are metal bunk beds that rattle and squeak with the slightest movement, have supports that roll you to the middle and mattresses that are thinner than most good sleeping bags.

Sometimes the metal ones have good enough mattresses but are so cramped into the spaces that one ends up almost sharing a bed with total strangers

Then there are others that are made solidly from wooden supports with proper support underneath and mattresses that are thick enough to provide even the most insomniacal of pilgrims with a good night's sleep.

Occasionally the dorms are kitted out with single storey beds, this is almost the height of luxury.

No matter how hefty the bunks I always worried when I climbed into the top bunk that I might pull the whole structure over as I hefted my non-slimline form to the top.

Some albergues provide bedding - this is usually a flimsy throw away under-sheet and similar style pillow-case. I have never found that these stay on the mattresses all night as they should and usually end up in piles all over the albergue, despite most places providing bins for their disposal. Some of the better albergues even provide blankets, often large snuggly blankets which are delightful to curl up under after a day on the road.

In the past I have always taken a sleeping blanket, although many nights had no use of it when it was hot, or with a blanket when it wasn't so warm. This year, however, Janey has found some fleecy sleeping bag liners which we will be using instead. This means another reduction in weight and bulk, and hopefully sufficient for a good night.

As for the bedbugs; we have on our travels heard some unsettling tales, and even heard one hospitalero tell a pilgrim who had found bugs in her bed that she should keep quiet and leave before she upset other pilgrims. In general though we have found places to be infestation-free and dusted against the critters. Hopefully this year, fingers crossed, we will again be alone in our beds, but if not apparently the best way to get rid of the bugs is to expose everything to bright sunlight and wash everything in piping hot water.

Knickers ... and socks

... or underpants and socks for any of our chums from the US.

Now this may be seen as a slightly delicate subject, or even a taboo one, but for me it is important. 

Although I have walked three Caminos previously I still have no final answer to my dilemma of what underwear to go for. 

I'm pretty much sorted on the socks front - I war two pairs. One thin pair as liners and another slightly thicker pair over the top. These are of the little ankle (sports /running) socks variety. To date these have left my feet hot at the end of the day, but in general problem free and lacking in blisters, which for me is the best thing. Folding them down over my trainers to cover the laced up part of the laces also seems to allow a bit of breathing. 

Overwear is fine- I shall be taking/wearing two pairs of shorts and two t-shirts, with a fleecy for early mornings and later evenings. 

In the past I have tried boxer shorts - too much freedom of movement and ended up with sore thighs/ chaffing. So I tried fitted boxers - not a lot of difference, and maybe just a little too hot and sweaty by the end of a good day's walk. 

Briefs are far too restrictive and they ride up where you don't want them to ride up and get hot and sweaty too. 

Specialist sports underwear have been no better and ended up in a wayside bin soon after a couple of day's walk.

I've tried wearing a jock-strap during my training but felt a little too exposed behind (not literally of course). 

Going commando  (where does that expression come from?) felt OK for a while but by the end of the day also left me chaffing. - perhaps I need to slim down my thighs before I go, but then I'd have skinny ones by the end of a walk. 

It has been suggested that Vaseline applied to the nether regions before setting off each day would help, but that sounds a little too slippery and uncomfortable to me. 

I have tried talcum powder, and that eased the soreness, but wasn't perfect as it settled in clumps by the end of the day, and was not pleasant. 

This year I shall be trying cotton fitted boxers with talcum powder, but am still open to suggestions....

A veggie on the Camino Frances

Setting out on the Camino Frances in 2010 I had no idea what kind of food I was going to find to eat being vegetarian. Spain doesn't have a great reputation for its veggie dishes. I've lived here over nine years now and still things aren't great.

I'd read about the pilgrim menus and had high hopes that they would include something veggie for me, and indeed on the whole they did. When the pilgrim menu was our evening meal of choice I usually ended up with a salad to start and macaroni in tomato sauce for the main course. A little limited, but usually good enough to fill my tummy and provide sustenance for the next day's walk. 

When we cooked our own meals I was usually the chef in charge of the dinner and of course everyone in our little groups was always happy enough to eat the veggie option, although often adding chorizo or bacon to theirs.

I never understood why many people were careful all along the Way to not tread on any creature and respect the animals then sat down for an evening meal of dead chicken, lamb or cow. The tow didn't really add up for me. 

In Villacazr de Sirga we made a delicious veggie stew with omelette on the side and couscous. At this time there were just four of us, so the quantity was more than enough. We offered what wasn't eaten to some Irish friends who happily took the stew and added chunks of meat.

In Leon Jane and I made delicious wraps for dinner, and to save the washing up simply covered the table in cling film and ate directly from that. (there were only a few plates available anyway!) 

In Hospital de Orbigo the albergue provided a whole load of fruit and veg free for taking

We helped ourselves to apples, but shopped at the supermarket for some frozen veggies cooked basically with a little mayonnaise - often simple is the best! 

In Astorga we cooked up some delicious macaroni with a side salad.  Even though it was about the only thing available to me on the pilgrim menus we still made it ourselves often enough. 

 In Rabanal we had a group meal with everyone else staying at the albergue, cooled by two Italian girls - yes pasta again, but delicious I must add. 

In Mercadoiro the pilgrim menu had a range of veggie dishes on it. I was in heaven, especially after a particularly difficult day. 

And in Portos the albergue owner made us a special omelette with salad which he picked straight from his garden and included chips which we re also hand made from his own potatoes. 

In O'Pedrouizo we found a cafe which served veggie lasagna which was very good. We also found delicious cakes here too. , and more than ample for our shrunken stomachs - I don't think either Jane or I finished the plates. 

Of course all meals tended to be washed down with some of the tastiest red wines along the Way. 

During the Camino I lost over eleven kilogrammes in weight -yes I was quite portly when we set out - and felt so much the better for it. 

Camino Dogs

Before setting out in 2010 I read quite a few guides and personal stories about the Camino Frances. Almost all of them warned of dogs on the Camino. Well I am here to tell the opposite. Never, whilst walking any of the Caminos over the past four years have I encountered any problems with dogs.

Admittedly there are some that bark a lot, but come on that's their job, and they're usually behind fences and gates where they are protecting the homesteads. But more often than not when approached they were just as soppy as the tow I have at home.
These two were supposedly protecting some calves, but were more interested in us and what we might have for them.

I've met dogs that have wanted to walk a ways with me, and have enjoyed their company.
This little girl was on heat and was drawing the attention of all the other dogs around, but preferred my company  for quite a walk. 

I have met dogs that most definitely wanted to share whatever food was going.

I've even met dogs that guarded the door to the albergue over night! This old boy even wanted to join me in the morning when I set off. 

Some just wanted to say 'Hi' as we passed.

But never ever have I had any that were out to get us, to chase us off, or cause us harm. For the most part they dozed quietly beside the path and watched as we went on our way, wondering why on earth humans were so stupid to be walking when it was so hot. 

For me the dogs on the Camino formed just another part of the wonders of nature that are out there, and many were wonderful company for  a while too. 

I found them all so endearing that last year I even made a calendar for 2013 for friends and family made up of some of these, and the many others we met. 

Shoes

One of the biggest problems I had before setting out on the Camino in 2010 was deciding 'what shoes to wear?'

I went from forum to forum, blog to blog, and found contradicting advice all over the place. The only thing that they all agreed on was to make sure the footwear was comfortable and well worn in. 

Should I wear boots? That would be almost impossible for me with my peripheral neuropathy. Shoes then? - not sure I had any comfortable ones at the time.

Off to Decathlon I went. This store is one of the only places that sell shoes my size in Spain. With a preference for 48 (12+) it isn't easy when shoe sizes in most shops stop at 45. 

In Decathlon I found a good comfortable and cheap pair of trainers that I thought would do the trick, and guess what they did. They carried me around the Garraf region as I prepared for the Camino and then the 800 or so kilometres along the Way too, all with just one tiny blister and one day of PN pain. 

So for the next two Caminos I bought exactly the same pair each year. Again I have done the same. An excellent and comfortable pair of trainers in 48 for just under fifteen euros- bargain. 

And for the end of the day I've carried the same pair of sandals too. comfy and well worn, and they'll be coming with me again this year! They may not be the most stylish, or fashionable, but they get me from A to B with the least problems.

Why walk the Camino?

Everyone has their reason for walking the Camino, each of us having a slightly different take on things.

In 2010 when I planned to set out on my first Camino -The Camino Frances  -I was asked many times why. I didn't have a concrete answer. All I knew was that the Camino was calling me. Over a period of a couple of weeks I got a series of messages at odd times or places putting the Camino firmly in my head. 

Since then I have been doing the Camino because - I have to, I need to -it's rooted deeply inside me now, I am addicted. 

Many times I have been asked "Are you doing it for charity?". My answer has always been "No, I am doing it for me." Maybe a little selfish but there you have it. I walk the Camino for my own benefit. It is like going on retreat, rebalancing my head and body, getting a little (ha ha) exercise.

This year is slightly different as Jane and Kerri, my walking companions have decided, after being asked the charity question many times, that they will take donations, and as well as having a just giving page are getting a collection organised at their local pub (where else?!) - The Fox, in Smalldole, Henfield. 

A short time back Jane's niece was diagnosed with Epilepsy, so they are walking for 'Young Epilepsy' and have a just giving page HERE. So if you'd like to help them on their way pop over and donate whatever you can afford.

To help boost their coffers I am also giving 50% of the proceeds of whatever my books' sales are for June. These can be bought at The House of TulStig Bookshop on Lulu.com  - The Magic of the Camino, specifically about our walk in 2010 is available in paperback, E-book and even in Spanish.  Copies are also available direct from me (signed if you'd like) or from Janey in the UK.