DAY TWO - Logroño to Najera

About thirty kilometres covered today depending on which guide book you ascribe to. 

We started off with a climb out of Logroño,  and were the first to leave the albergue, which was far from full.  We have noticed that the way is much quieter this year compared to 2010.

The terrain had been varied and beautiful.  We have had to stop many times to admire the views.  Mountains,  lakes,  forests.  I think we've pretty much seen it all today. 

Arriving in Najera we were relieved to kick off our shoes and get in the showers. We've had a quick look round but have returned for a lie down before venturing out later for dinner. 

The challenge for me this year is to stay present.  With so much going on in the next couple of weeks I'm being careful to try to push that aside and stay in the moment.  So far so good.  There is so much to see and think about as we walk that the projects of the near future are staying there.

W ere checked into another comfortable and well maintained albergue which only opened in 2012. Friendly,  clean and ideally located by the River and directly on the Camino.

It's much busier here and our room is full of cyclists.  Hopefully none of them snorks as a good night's sleep is what we need ready for tomorrow's walk. ...

Day ONE - Barcelona to Logroño

Up at 5am to catch the first train to Barcelona to board or train to Logroño.  All went swimmingly without a hitch, despite previous worries about cutting it fine. Surprisingly the train was quite busy - most people on their way home after a night of clubbing. 

As we pulled into Logroño I had a sudden attack of nerves.  Not sure what that was all about,  but it may have had something to do with our stop off here 4 years ago when we really didn't gel with the city. 

We arrived at the albergue a little early so they let us drop off or rucksacks while they finished cleaning and we went off for a coffee. We returned about an hour later and checked in.

It's a wonderful place.  Only opened last year by a guy who has walked the camino 9 times, and I thought we were gluttons for punishment.  The hosts are very very friendly and helpful and the place has a relaxed and welcoming energy.  It's clean and tidy with everything we could need for an overnight stay.  Pretty much luxurious as far as albergues go.

After checking in we've done a bit more sightseeing and actually love the city.  We clearly missed the best parts last time.
Tapas and a glass of rioja for lunch and we were well sorted.

It's been a great start to this year's adventure but now we are both pooped and are going to spend the rest of the evening relaxing on our bunks. Happily the place is far from full and very peaceful so it looks like a good night's sleep is on the cards.

Although we're both tired we're in high spirits.  Tomorrow the walking begins and we are both keen to get going. 

Bags packed, ready for the off ..

Well almost.

Nearly everything is laid out on the bed ready to go into the rucksack, or bum-bag. It looks like a lot, but won't fill the rucksack and hopefully won't weigh too much. In previous years I've managed to keep it down to around 7 kilos. 

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This morning I popped round to decathlon to get some rubber tips for the walking poles so that they are less annoying when walking in town or on the roadside.  

I've just called the first albergue to confirm our reservation, the receptionist even spoke English, which surprised me a little, and also confirmed the one for Monday night too -so we're sorted for beds for the first two nights, so don't need to rush too much. 

Later this evening I'll pick Jane up at the airport. She's bringing the official Camino 2014 T-shirts and caps. W can then both finish our packing, make a snack for the train journey and hopefully get a  bit of sleep before we have to be up at dawn to start our adventure.... Wish us luck!! 

The Plan

AS the French Air Traffic controllers strike is off our walk is ON, baring any other disasters, of which there will be none!

Tomorrow Jane arrives from Gatwick into Barcelona at ten past eight in the evening. Once i have picked her up we will indulge in a light dinner and relax, going to be early, although I'm not sure either of us will sleep much.  Before bedding down we will be preparing sarnies for the train journeys in the morning.

On Sunday we have to get to VnG train station for the first train at 06:19 to get to Barcelona Sants to catch the long-distance train to Logroño at 07:30.  The journey is just under four hours and we should arrive in Logroño around 11:22, according to the RENFE timetable. 

For the Sunday night we have reserved a bed (litera) in the Check-In Rioja Albergue. Once we have checked in we will have time to play tourist in Logroño and maybe get a couple of stamps on our credenciales.  

The rest of our plan is as follows: (distances are approx)

Monday  - Logroño to Najera 30kms (Staying in the Puerto de Najera Albergue)
Tuesday - Najera to Santo Domingo 22kms  (Staying in the Cofradia del Santo Albergue) 
Weds    - Santo Domingo to Belorado 23kms (Staying in the Cuatro Cantones Albergue)
Thurs    - Belorado to Ages 28kms (Staying in the El Pajar de Ages Albergue )
Friday   - Ages to Burgos 25 kms (Staying in the Hotel Maria Salome) 
Sat       - Flight from Burgos back to BCN. 

To say we are botha little excited to be going back over well-trodden ground from our adventure in 2010 is an understatement. We are like a couple of kids waiting for Santa on Christmas Eve! 

And this is the route, more or less

Ver Camino Frances Stage 2 - Logrono to Burgos en un mapa más grande

Listo

Listo = Spanish meaning ready! 

Well, I've finally got round to making my list of essential items to take with me, and happily it's not a large one. So once I've put all these things in my rucksack I'll be ready for the off. 

I can't find my Brierly guidebook which I used in 2010. However, it was an older copy and it was already out of date then. I am sure there will have been some changes on the Way -  and it'll be interesting to see what. I'm not worried about not having a guidebook though. As I remember it was well signposted and on the whole pretty easy to follow (famous last words!).

Last night I had a dream I was already walking and met a woman I had met back in 2010 whilst on the same path. I don't do dream interpretations much, but am guessing that the Camino is so much in my head at the moment that it's quite natural to dream of it too. If on the other hand you think this is a message for me do tell!!

Yes Siree I am ready to go ...

ATC

Been a bit preoccupied today due to the French Air Traffic Controllers strike, and how  it might affect Jane's arrival, and whether she will be able to join me after all.  And I'm sure we're not the only 'pilgrims' that are on tenterhooks concerned whether they will make it to the Camino this year or not. 

Do they seriously think that by disrupting travel across Europe that they will get the support of the public? So many people work for fifty weeks a year to get a couple in the sun only to have their flight cancelled because of them. Blood boiling!! A week of strikes- and always in the summer. 

Yes we notice what they are doing and their cause gets airtime, but who, in the long run are they hurting? - The government who are imposing cuts? - Nope. The man in the street - Yep  

'Take it easy' Tone advises 'Watch your blood pressure.' 

Anyway rant over, but I guess you can see now why I've been a little preoccupied today, and the annoying thing is we won't know whether Jane's flight will be cancelled until the very last minute - so chums cross your fingers and say your prayers that she'll make if safe and sound and our adventure will go ahead as planned, otherwise it could be a solo venture for me again. 

I've been watching the Easy-jet 'flight-tracker' page and although some of the delays from Gatwick to Barcelona have been substantial, there was only one out of six flights cancelled on that route today. I live in hope .... 

Just BE

As our departure date looms ever closer one of the things I am really looking forward to is being back in nature. Walking in the woods, through the fields and meadows, and even beside the roads with nature all around makes my heart sing. The sounds of the birds and insects going about their business and very little else assaulting my ears is something I cherish. Disconnecting from the daily 'grind' is a bonus - boots on, rucksack packed and walk - no more worries.... 

Whilst surfing this morning I saw this and think it just about says it all: 

That song again

This morning I woke with a song in my head, and heart, and for anyone that's followed my Camino journeys before you may have an inkling just what song it is. 

In 2010 Sussi, the crazy Finn, played us all 'The conquest of Paradise' by Dana Winner one evening and it became our song of the Camino without further ado. This was the song that started my day, so I just had to fire up the PC and play it for real .

The lyrics are wonderful and inspirational and kind of capture what the Camino is about for me, and by Camino in this instance I mean my life path:

There shines a light in the heart of man,

Defies the dead of the night,

A beam that glows within every soul

Like wings of hope taking flight.

A sunny day, when a baby's born,

The little things that we say,

A special sparkle in someone's eye,

Simple gifts, every day.

Somewhere there's a paradise

Where everyone finds release,

It's here on earth and between your eyes,

A place we all find our peace

        Come - open your heart,

        Reach for the stars,

        Believe your own power.

        Now - here in this place,

        Here on this earth,

        This is the hour.

It's just a place we call paradise,

Each of us has his own,

It has no name, no, it has no price,

It's just a place we call home.

A dream that reaches beyond the stars

The endless blue of the skies,

Forever wondering: who we are?

Forever questioning: why?

        Come - open your heart,

        Reach for the stars,

        Believe your own power.

        Now - here in this place,

        Here on this earth,

        This is the hour.

There shines a light in the heart of man,

Defies the dead of the night,

A beam that glows within every soul

Like wings of hope taking flight,

Like wings of hope taking flight.

I can feel the energy building for our next adventure, and I am being swept away by it. Not long now ...

A week today ...

... at this time we'll be in Logroño, excitedly waiting to start our Camino -my fifth and Janey's fourth. 

Next Sunday at 06:19 we will be catching a train to Barcelona where we catch the fast train (at 07:30) to Logroño. We are planning to make sandwiches for the journey, and are going to enjoy this journey as much as the walking one, just like we did back in 2010, when the train journey was Barcelona to Pamplona. 

Arriving in Logroño at around 11:30 we will be cheking into the new albergue there - The 'Check-in Rioja' which I found on the net recently and was really impressed with how it looked. The albergue we stayed in in 2010 didn't greatly impress us, but I'm sure this one will hit the spot. http://www.checkinrioja.com

We'll then have the afternoon and evening to play the tourist and have a good look around, have a siesta, and get to bed early for our very early start the next day. 

Back in Training

The only time I've done a load of training for the Camino was when we did our first, back in 2010 when I walked quite a bit beforehand in the mountains around us, here in Catalunya. This year, what with our late decision to go on another Camino and other constraints training will be minimal again. A few walks along the coast should up my fitness level a little, then the first day back on the Way will sort us out. 

This morning I set out on a walk along the coastal path to Sitges with Karen, also on hols from Supernova. We met at the monument at the bottom of the Rambla, and after sorting out Karen's parking we were on our way.

The weather wasn't too hot, enough to make us sweat a little when climbing the slopes, but cloudy enough for protection. 

 It was great to walk, chat and think, with a like-minded person. IN no time we were in Sitges, where we had a light lunch of tapas. 

I left the decision about our mode of transport back to VnG down to Karen. She bravely chose walking, so back along the coast we walked. I'm pretty sure Karen enjoyed the walk and the chat, but I'm guessing she may be aching a bit in the morrow! Well it is around 20kms there and back, mas o menos, almost a full Camino's day walking. 

Cuatro cantones, Belorado

During our five day walk this year we will pass through Belorado, the town of our favourite Albergue - The Cuatro Cantones, where we spend a wonderful Sunday four years ago. The place is peaceful, the hospitaleros/owners friendly and super-helpful, and the food was delicious- we ordered and partook in the communal dinner, and the chef made me a special vegetarian meal, which was much appreciated. 

As well as taking a look around Belorado during the afternoon we also spent time relaxing by the pool. The beds were comfy and the whole place clean and tidy -just the way we like it.  All of this is of course described in my 'bestselling book' - The Magic of The Camino.  (click link for details)

Anyway excuse my rambling - the reason I'm going on about this albergue is because we thought we'd try and see if we could book ahead for a bed there this year, so I sent them an e-mail and have just had  a lovely reply confirming our stay.  Woo-hoo. It looks like this is going to be a rather cushy little walk! 

Interestingly we stayed there on the 4th July last year, this year we will be there on the 2nd. 

More details about the Cuatro Cantones can be found by clicking the link to their website HERE

Credentials / Credenciales

In my last post I said that our credentials had arrived, and as there was a bit of interest in just what they were and why we need them as we walk the Camino I thought I'd elaborate a little. 

Credentials, or pilgrim passports are documents provided by Organisations authorised by the Pilgrim Office in Santiago that provide a means of recording the Way walked by a pilgrim, by the collection of stamps (sellos) along the Way. There are usually issuing offices in your country of Origin, or you can pick one up at the start of your walk -In St Jean Pied de Port, at the Pilgrim office there, and often in albergues along the various Caminos. 

They are also necessary if you want to stay in the Albergues along the way as the proof you are a pilgrim walking the Camino (whichever Camino you may have chosen). 

The photo at the top of this blog is the Credential provided by the Confraternity of Saint James, in the UK. It was with this one that I walked in 2010 along the French Way from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago, although there wasn't enough space for all the stamps collected so along the way I picked up another from one of the Albergues: 

In 2011, when we walked the Camino Portuguese we obtained another of the same design from the confraternity once more. 

In 2012 when I walked the Camino Primitivo I obtained a free (donation) credential from the Peterborough Pilgrims who were, at the time authorised to provide them (sadly this is no longer the case). 

In 2013 we also obtained our credentials from the Peterborough Pilgrims office with which we walked the Camino Ingles. 

After arriving in Santiago last year, instead of stopping we continued to Finisterre, and for this walk we were given a credential by the local tourist office (for free) along with a whole load more information. 

And this year another style, which I obtained from the Pilgrim Office in Santiago, minimum donation 2.50. 

And once the walk is done you can take your stamped, and often rather grubby credential to the Pilgrim office and get a compostella - a certificate of acheivement, by any other name! 

Moving along ...

That's just what our plans are doing ... moving along. 

Today Janey and I have spent a while chatting and booking flights for the Camino which we will be starting in just 20 days. And for my subsequent trip to the UK. 

Janey will fly to Barcelona and spend the night with us at Casa TulStig on the 28th June. The next day (29/06/2014) we will catch an early train (unless some kind person out there has a car and is willing to drop us??)  to Barcelona Sants to catch a slightly later (but still early) train to Logroño, where we will spend the afternoon preparing for our first steps back on the Camino Frances the following day. 

I then tried to book the trains, but came up with a couple of problems in understanding how the RENFE site works. I shall this evening discuss this with my dear friend, Irene, and tomorrow get on and book the train tickets too. 

All this aside our credentials arrived today in the mail from Santiago. They are different to ones we've had before - more compact: 

There is still plenty of space for sellos (stamps) but they'll fit in our small bags much easier, for easy access. In previous years I also got them free from a site called 'Peterborough Pilgrims', but following a change in policy by the the powers that be in Santiago this site is no longer able to distribute them for free. Instead they have to be ordered direct for a small fee. IS this another sign of the commercialisation of the camino I worry? 

Camino 2014 Fashion

Every year I have walked one of the Caminos I have created a t-shirt specially for the occasion. You can see the previous designs on a previous blog entry: Camino Fashion.

Well this year is no different. I have designed another t-shirt to wear on this year's adventure: 

As these are the only t-shirts I take whilst walking I sometimes wonder if people think I'm wearing the same one day in day out, as well as well as to bed at night. BUt they are swapped daily. Walk wearing one, wash and dry it while wearing the other.

And of course my Camino outfit wouldn't be complete without a matching cap to protect my delicate head (delicate cos of lack of hair that is!).

So, there you go, now you know what the best-dressed pilgrim will be wearing on this year's Camino.

It's time...

to dust off this blog a little and get ready for this year's adventure....

For the past few month's Jane and I had said we wouldn't do a Camino this year because of other commitments, but then I was browsing on the internet and a Camino site popped up, as they do, and I thought: 'Why can't we go?' another thought followed swiftly on 'Those who do do, those who don't want to make excuses.' I immediately messaged Janey and asked if she wanted to walk. She did, I did, and we're going -it's as easy as that. 

These feet were made for walking, and that's just what they'll do...

Camino 2014 

So at this point I need to say something. *stands up* "My name is Mark, and I am a Camino junkie!* There I've said it. The thought of not walking this year was bringing me down. Now we've hatched our plan, and are setting it in motion I am happy. Part of that is because I have walked the coastal route from VnG to Sitges this morning and connected with the wonderful nature that is around here too. 

Over the past couple of days we've decided on a route- we're going to walk our favourite part of the Camino Frances -Five days walking from Logroño to Burgos. It's between 125 and 130 kms- averaging at about 25kms a day - should be easy enough. We now have to decided and set dates, but we're planning on going sooner rather than later, so probably the end of this month... Interested in our upcoming journey? From here on in I shall post daily updates on where we're at, both before we set off and during our walk, simply sign up and see what we're up to ... Buen Camino Janey, as we say on The Way.