Tuesday, 8 July 2014

Burgos - party town

Our last night on the Camino was spent in a small apart-hotel in the centre of Burgos. We had decided that having walked somewhere around 140kms we deserved a little luxury and booked into the Maria Salome - at 55€ for the night it was good value and perfectly located just off the Plaza Mayor. Little did we know when I booked it on-line that it was owned by the same place as where we had our dinner in 2010 with Laila before she flew back to Sweden and we walked on. 



As we came into Burgos we realised that we had arrived during one of their big fietsas and the streets were packed with people going about their fiesta business. It gave the city an exciting and energizing atmosphere. 

Unfortunately as our bodies were still working to the Camino time-clock (awake at 5 bed by 9) we didn't manage to stay up that late to enjoy the full experience, but from what we did see Burgos was clearly a party city. 


Saturday, 5 July 2014

DAY SIX - Ages to Burgos

The sign as you come into Ages days let our town enchant you.  And oh boy can it!

Whilst wandering around town soaking up the energy I took a load of photos but when I tried to play them back later they had all got errors.  Not one of my photos of Ages after the sign has been saved successfully.  I'm guessing the town wants to keep its secrets. 
I had the best night's sleep on the Camino, this time,  in our funny old dormitory in the eaves of the pink house.  We even slept in till six!

Once again I wasn't keen to leave Ages and had heavy feet. Our morning starts are usually quite quick.  This morning we took it more slowly than ever before, my mind was constantly slipping back. 

Around nine we stopped for breakfast and first of all were joined by a friendly little dog who was more than happy to share my croissant, and actually ended up having more than me.  Then another couple, well 3, pilgrims joined us,  and as we got into conversion it turned out that one of them, Cue (Q) was living in Brighton! The others were from Cambridge (Anna, originally from the Ukraine) and Mississippi (John-Mark).

Arriving in Burgos we found our hotel (us a bit of luxury for our last night) and we were amazed that it was owned and run by the same place as where we ate in 2010 for Laila's last meal!

Burgos is currently in the middle of a summer fiesta and is very busy.  It is a beautiful city but a little overwhelming after being on the Camino for a few days.  I thought I would be keen to keep walking when we got here but have found that I am content to stop and am looking forward to going home. ...

Thursday, 3 July 2014

DAY FIVE - Belorado to Ages.

The start was a bit difficult this morning with a painful ankle. Then a voice said 'take it easy'.  I listened and changed into my sandals (yes with socks) and slowed my pace. The pain subsided and became more manageable allowing us to arrive here in Ages about an hour ago. 

The Walk between Belorado and here is spectacular.  Normally the views are breathtaking but today most of the way was shrouded in cloud.  So we couldn't see far ahead but what we could see and feel was awesome.  Energy fills this area of the Camino and my hands were tingling/vibrating as we walked through the woods and Meadows. 

We are in same albergue as 2010 which is fantastic.  My whole body is picking up on the energy here and I know that I will be recharged before we leave.  Feeling relaxed is an understatement.  I am so chilled I don't think anything could rile me.  This is such a wonderful feeling. 

There is a storm blowing around the mountains which is adding to the electric atmosphere.  If it comes this way I think we will be in for quite a show. 

Later I shall visit the church.  If you've read my book you'll know the why and wherefore of that.  If you haven't 'why not'?

Memories  and memories of memories are filling my head,  some from our last visit, others from who knows when.  But I know I've been he me than just the once.

Will I return again?  Let's see what I find in the church. 

Wednesday, 2 July 2014

DAY FOUR - Santo Domingo to Belorado

Despite a poor night's sleep and a bit if rain it's been a pretty magical day. 

To keep up our spirits as we walked we sang a lot along the way and coming into Belorado substituted the town name for others in various songs. .. Can you get these. ..
You can check out anytime but you can never leave.  Welcome to. ..
Or
....... Why don't you come to your senses,  you've been out riding fences. ..

And as we walked beside the road for a part of the way we waved to lorries that were passing (like kids in the back of a car) eliciting many waves in return and quite a few honked horns. 

Arriving at our favourite albergue from our last visit we settled in and decided to eat in the restaurant here too. As we ordered the song changed to 'conquest of paradise' our camino song from 2010 bringing a tear to my eye.  What better message that I am in the place I should be at this moment.  This was followed by Bette Middler singing the theme from beaches. I crumbled!

We have spent the afternoon playing with the dog (a new,  four month old,  addition since our last visit called Kira), feeding the rabbits and chickens and then snuggled under blankets on the bed. 

This place still holds all the magic it had in 2010. The owners are just as delightful as we remember and the energy is more than special. 

Tomorrow we head for Ages where I expect to find more amazing energy both along the way and in the tiny hamlet itself. 

Tuesday, 1 July 2014

DAY THREE- Najera to Santo Domingo (Oh what a night)

Last night we didn't get a lot of sleep as there was some kind of local fiesta going on until the wee hours.  Between 9 and midnight a band was playing up and down the streets loud enough to fill the town with its music.  And even when that seemed to finish people were raucously partying right outside the albergue until at least 3 am.

Despite the wildness going during the night ruining any possibility of sleep we were still up at 5.30 and back out before six.

Something I love about the Camino is the cameraderie. Everyone says hello and wishes each other 'Buen Camino'. Knowledge and stories are freely shared as are provisions and offers of help.  Despite the mix of languages everyone tries to communicate the best way they can.  This may simply be with nods, smiles and gestures,  or more often than not in each other's languages.  English more often than not is the lingua franca, spoken in so many different accents. I love hearing the different ways people try to express themselves in my language. 

If possible I try to at least acknowledge others in their language,  be it French,  German, or Spanish.  This is most often well received but sometimes causes a little confusion.  No one ever mistakes me for Spanish but today when I greeted a French'
woman with 'bonjour' she asked which part of France I was from, explaining later that my French accent was excellent.  If only that were true of my Spanish accent. 

Our walk this morning was full of the sights,  sounds and wonder that is the Camino. Nature at its best buoying us along. Even a light rain as we entered Santo Domingo didn't dampen our spirits.  I may have mentioned this before but it really does have a magic of its own  why else would we return every year? 

We are now comfortably ensconced in the albergue that we stayed in back in 2010, which is just as we remembered,  although it isn't quite as bright and new as it was back then, but I guess that we too have aged a bit. 

Tomorrow rain storms are predicted along the way so we shall suit up accordingly.  We've enjoyed walking the way in the rain before and no doubt shall do so again. ...