Cute Camino Cats

Every dog has its day .... So what about the Camino Cats. ON each of the Caminos I have walked I've met sum of the cutest of cats. Not all of them have appeared to be living in optimum conditions and leaving some of them behind was heart-wrenching, especially as I am sure they will not have survived the winter following. 

But Just wanted to say to each and every one of the cats that graced my journey with their beautiful presence- Thank you. X

Here are just a few of them: 

FRANCES 2010
These two wanted to share our breakfasts, and I must say that they had all the cheese out of my bocadillo that morning.

Another cat another sandwich - this one was so friendly and even let me stroke and pet him

This cheeky chappie we met in Ganzo. He walked part of the road with us, delighted with our company.

 In Manjarin there were several kitten playing around the sign. Such energy and a wonderful sight to watch

 These rascals were playing in and out of the back of this van.

 And this little man got plenty of loving from many of the passing pilgrims

 whilst this family, a little further down the road were content to play in the drain.

PORTUGUESE 2011

Sleeping high a wall we were a little concerned for this one's welfare, but needn't have worried a few moments later he woke and stretched.

 This one lived in the grounds of the albergue at Pontevedra  - If anyone has passed that way recently or is about to pass that way let us know if he's still around. 

 PRIMITIVO
This young man insisted I tickled his tummy before moving on, then promptly scratched and bit me -proving the Camino cats to be more dangerous than the dogs!

 and this one just wanted to sniff my feet (??!!) 

With four at home, that I miss dearly whilst I am away, I am grateful to encounter these furry fellows on my travels, and if by sharing my rations with them i improve their lot then even better. 

Along the Portuguese Coast

In 2011 I walked the Camino Portuguese with my sister in law- Janey, and our friend from the Camino Frances, Sussi (The mad Finn). 

Setting out from Porto we decided to take the coastal route to Vila Do Conde, instead of the inland route to Vilarinho. Admittedly it didn't at first seem as well organised as the Camino Frances but the views were just as stunning, and the path marked sufficiently for us to find the way with ease.

With a slight wind blowing in of the Atlantic coast we were kept cool, despite the fact that we were walking mid-June. 

Fortunately the Yellow arrows were our constant friends, and usually pointed in the same direction - Up - meaning it as all straight on up the coast.

There were cafes along the way where we were able to catch up with breakfast.None of us spoke any Portuguese, but it didn't seem to matter  a lot -we worked out what this sign meant...

A lot of the route was along boardwalks which were springy and comfortable to walk on, even though in places they weren't perfectly maintained - but if we were looking for perfection we wouldn't have set out in the first place. . .The Camino isn't about perfection it's about.... well just about anything you want it to be about. 

We met no other pilgrims along this stretch of our walk, but Janey did make a friend at this wayside bar. We also met some Australian walkers (Peter and Hugh) on arrival in Vila Do Conde. 

Happily there were wilder tracks too with all the beauty one expects of a Camino. And some ancient monuments and dwellings to see as we walked.

 The coastline was at once rugged and spectacular. What more could we have wanted on our first day out on the Camino Portuguese? 

The Best Bocadillos...

The best bocadillos on the Camino was Josefina's boast as we entered her store in El Acebo, after a long morning's walk. She even pointed out a postcard she had received from some pilgrims who had returned to Brazil which/who supported her claim. 

She was a little surprised we only wanted cheese in ours, telling us that the ham was exceptional, and didn't really get the whole vegetarian thing, but promised the tomatoes with which she made the sandwiches were fresh and tasty from her garden that morning. 

Sitting outside her store in the semi-sunshine/shade we had to agree -well who knows 'best' is relative but they were good, and more than enough for our lunch break. We ate half each and carried the rest for a snack later.  Right next to the store was a water fountain which gushed cool fresh water too. It really is the simple things that make the Camino exceptional. 

 As we were sitting eating this young man came and joined us. He was so gorgeous that we considered stealing him, until we found out that was what had happened to his brother just the day before. He was, said Josefina's hubby, missing his brother and feeling a little sad. Well he definitely had a hang-dog expression. 

Wayside delights

Walking the Camino is perhaps the most incredible experience of my life (so far). For oh so many reasons, not the least that this semi-couch potato got up and walked about 800kms. 

All along the Way there are delights to be enjoyed, for a whole variety of reasons. 

Whether this be a wayside bar offering sustenance and a seat early on in the day  (FRANCES)

A wine fountain with wine (gratis) for weary pilgrims. The fat the awe passed her at around seven thirty in the morning did not stop us partaking in the Camino tradition. (FRANCES) 

Sometimes just a shadey line of trees and bushes was enough to make me appreciate how wonderful things were (FRANCES)

Or a bench under a tree in a place far out of the way. Here I left my initial in stones (I wonder if it's still there?) (FRANCES)

 A wayside cart offering a range of goodies, with an honesty policy - donate if you take. This place was a godsend. (FRANCES)

 Local arts and crafts are often there when you look in the small hamlets and villages, and often raise a smile. (FRANCES)

 And of course the beauty of the wildlife along the way. Sunflowers were in general out of season when we walked but these were magnificent. (FRANCES)

 A fruit stall loaded with my favourite - raspberries -really felt like a gift from the universe that we made the most of... (FRANCES)

 and of course Spain can make some of the most delicious of afternoon cakes and puddings...(FRANCES)

A view of the coast and a cooling breeze blowing off the Atlantic (PORTUGUESE) 

 Interesting structures and sculptures (PORTUGUESE) 

Traditional local food - Pimientos del Padron (PORTUGUESE) 

 Views to die for (PRIMITIVO)

Interesting buildings (PRIMITIVO)

 Wayside verges full of colour (PRIMITIVO)

 Locals going about their daily business and still offering friendly support (PRIMITIVO)

An impromptu group task or gathering (it was cold and wet that morning) (PRIMITIVO) 

On each of the Caminos I have walked so far there have been wonders, small and large to take my breath away and make me so happy to be alive. 

Of beds (and bugs)

Having just read a post on Facebook about an albergue being closed on the Finisterre route because of an outbreak of bedbugs my mind has been drawn to one of the most important considerations on the Camino- of the beds, bedding and those infernal bed-bugs.

I have sampled quite a few of the albergues on the French Way, the Portuguese Way and the Primitive Way I am so pleased, and relieved, to say I have not once shared my bed with a bug- well not knowingly and have definitely had no bad effects if  I have done so unknowingly.

The beds themselves vary from albergue to albergue. In some places they are metal bunk beds that rattle and squeak with the slightest movement, have supports that roll you to the middle and mattresses that are thinner than most good sleeping bags.

Sometimes the metal ones have good enough mattresses but are so cramped into the spaces that one ends up almost sharing a bed with total strangers

Then there are others that are made solidly from wooden supports with proper support underneath and mattresses that are thick enough to provide even the most insomniacal of pilgrims with a good night's sleep.

Occasionally the dorms are kitted out with single storey beds, this is almost the height of luxury.

No matter how hefty the bunks I always worried when I climbed into the top bunk that I might pull the whole structure over as I hefted my non-slimline form to the top.

Some albergues provide bedding - this is usually a flimsy throw away under-sheet and similar style pillow-case. I have never found that these stay on the mattresses all night as they should and usually end up in piles all over the albergue, despite most places providing bins for their disposal. Some of the better albergues even provide blankets, often large snuggly blankets which are delightful to curl up under after a day on the road.

In the past I have always taken a sleeping blanket, although many nights had no use of it when it was hot, or with a blanket when it wasn't so warm. This year, however, Janey has found some fleecy sleeping bag liners which we will be using instead. This means another reduction in weight and bulk, and hopefully sufficient for a good night.

As for the bedbugs; we have on our travels heard some unsettling tales, and even heard one hospitalero tell a pilgrim who had found bugs in her bed that she should keep quiet and leave before she upset other pilgrims. In general though we have found places to be infestation-free and dusted against the critters. Hopefully this year, fingers crossed, we will again be alone in our beds, but if not apparently the best way to get rid of the bugs is to expose everything to bright sunlight and wash everything in piping hot water.

Knickers ... and socks

... or underpants and socks for any of our chums from the US.

Now this may be seen as a slightly delicate subject, or even a taboo one, but for me it is important. 

Although I have walked three Caminos previously I still have no final answer to my dilemma of what underwear to go for. 

I'm pretty much sorted on the socks front - I war two pairs. One thin pair as liners and another slightly thicker pair over the top. These are of the little ankle (sports /running) socks variety. To date these have left my feet hot at the end of the day, but in general problem free and lacking in blisters, which for me is the best thing. Folding them down over my trainers to cover the laced up part of the laces also seems to allow a bit of breathing. 

Overwear is fine- I shall be taking/wearing two pairs of shorts and two t-shirts, with a fleecy for early mornings and later evenings. 

In the past I have tried boxer shorts - too much freedom of movement and ended up with sore thighs/ chaffing. So I tried fitted boxers - not a lot of difference, and maybe just a little too hot and sweaty by the end of a good day's walk. 

Briefs are far too restrictive and they ride up where you don't want them to ride up and get hot and sweaty too. 

Specialist sports underwear have been no better and ended up in a wayside bin soon after a couple of day's walk.

I've tried wearing a jock-strap during my training but felt a little too exposed behind (not literally of course). 

Going commando  (where does that expression come from?) felt OK for a while but by the end of the day also left me chaffing. - perhaps I need to slim down my thighs before I go, but then I'd have skinny ones by the end of a walk. 

It has been suggested that Vaseline applied to the nether regions before setting off each day would help, but that sounds a little too slippery and uncomfortable to me. 

I have tried talcum powder, and that eased the soreness, but wasn't perfect as it settled in clumps by the end of the day, and was not pleasant. 

This year I shall be trying cotton fitted boxers with talcum powder, but am still open to suggestions....

A veggie on the Camino Frances

Setting out on the Camino Frances in 2010 I had no idea what kind of food I was going to find to eat being vegetarian. Spain doesn't have a great reputation for its veggie dishes. I've lived here over nine years now and still things aren't great.

I'd read about the pilgrim menus and had high hopes that they would include something veggie for me, and indeed on the whole they did. When the pilgrim menu was our evening meal of choice I usually ended up with a salad to start and macaroni in tomato sauce for the main course. A little limited, but usually good enough to fill my tummy and provide sustenance for the next day's walk. 

When we cooked our own meals I was usually the chef in charge of the dinner and of course everyone in our little groups was always happy enough to eat the veggie option, although often adding chorizo or bacon to theirs.

I never understood why many people were careful all along the Way to not tread on any creature and respect the animals then sat down for an evening meal of dead chicken, lamb or cow. The tow didn't really add up for me. 

In Villacazr de Sirga we made a delicious veggie stew with omelette on the side and couscous. At this time there were just four of us, so the quantity was more than enough. We offered what wasn't eaten to some Irish friends who happily took the stew and added chunks of meat.

In Leon Jane and I made delicious wraps for dinner, and to save the washing up simply covered the table in cling film and ate directly from that. (there were only a few plates available anyway!) 

In Hospital de Orbigo the albergue provided a whole load of fruit and veg free for taking

We helped ourselves to apples, but shopped at the supermarket for some frozen veggies cooked basically with a little mayonnaise - often simple is the best! 

In Astorga we cooked up some delicious macaroni with a side salad.  Even though it was about the only thing available to me on the pilgrim menus we still made it ourselves often enough. 

 In Rabanal we had a group meal with everyone else staying at the albergue, cooled by two Italian girls - yes pasta again, but delicious I must add. 

In Mercadoiro the pilgrim menu had a range of veggie dishes on it. I was in heaven, especially after a particularly difficult day. 

And in Portos the albergue owner made us a special omelette with salad which he picked straight from his garden and included chips which we re also hand made from his own potatoes. 

In O'Pedrouizo we found a cafe which served veggie lasagna which was very good. We also found delicious cakes here too. , and more than ample for our shrunken stomachs - I don't think either Jane or I finished the plates. 

Of course all meals tended to be washed down with some of the tastiest red wines along the Way. 

During the Camino I lost over eleven kilogrammes in weight -yes I was quite portly when we set out - and felt so much the better for it.