Follow the signs

Before Setting out on the Camino many people's fear is that they will get lost. Now this is always a small possibility, but this occurs when one doesn't follow, or doesn't keep an eye out for the signs. It is my experience that the Caminos are all well marked.

Right from the start of the Camino Frances in St Jean Pied de Port there are signs to follow to find your way

And signs that tell you just how far you've left to go. although these can be a bit misleading, and vary greatly from place to place.

There are small signs to point you in one direction or the other:

 And larger signs with more details about the route you can choose.

 There are even bigger ones that detail the route in various regions

 And colourful signs that just let you know you are still on the right path.

How could you ever go wrong it you keep your eye out for these?

 Some are natural and made by pilgrims that have passed this way before.

 And of course there's the yellow shell that is always a sure sign that you're on the right track.

 And Yellow arrows of all sizes and descriptions

 More formal ones put up by local councils or friends of the Camino societies

 And the distance markers found all along the route in Galicia

 And of course the one that tells you you are nearly at the end of the road as you enter Santiago.

Yet with all these strong clues as to which way to go on each of the Caminos I have walked I have ended up getting slightly lost. And here I have to put my hands up - each time was because I wasn't paying attention to the way. I was either busy chatting (remember that diversion Janey on the hottest of days), or I simply didn't see the sign because I thought I knew better and was headed in the right direction. Getting lost is an option of course, but , in my case, one taken only through lack of concentration...

Camino Magic kicking in...

Well it seems the old Camino magic is starting to kick in again for me.  Just on Monday I was wondering about getting a pedometer to see how far I'm walking every day, and to maybe do a longer walk at the weekend and keep an eye on my progress.

Later in the afternoon on Facebook Kerri (one of the Ingles three this year) posted about her and Janey's walk with a picture of an app on her phone which is ... yes a pedometer. I've since downloaded and this morning tried to give it a go but lost the stats as soon as I exited the programme -I shall try it out again later. 

Then on Tuesday morning after reading another interesting blog called the Third Chapter, being written about the Camino by someone who is starting this week I was thinking about lightening my backpack. The blog I had been reading was about the woman's preparation and how she cut down on the items she is going to be carrying. 

My mind turned to my sleeping bag, and I decided that I would check online for a liner, which would do the job but be much lighter. When I got home Tony said Janey had called and would call again later as she was ordering herself a fleece liner and did I want her to order me one too... Camino Magic in action for sure.

So hopefully I'll be able to keep an eye on my progress as I step up my walking training, and I'll stay warm on the Camino at night with my new fleece liner... 

Charlie's bar

When writing about the Camino drinkies I prefer I missed out the one that Jane and I always treat ourselves to at the end of our walk - a gin and Tonic. And this is no ordinary G & T, this is one served at Charlie's Bar.

Charlie's Bar is not in fact called Charlie's at all, this is the nickname we gave it from the old waiter that originally served us our very first G & T there. The place is actually called  Cafe Casino on the Rua de Villar (number  35 to be exact). It is only just down the road from the pilgrim's Office. 

It is a delightfully relaxed and relaxing place that serves drinks and food throughout the day, and they really have no problem with how you arrive. Our first visit we had just finished the second half of the Camino and fell in the door looking for sustenance (well alcohol to be honest) and were greeted by Old Charlie who was extremely friendly and helpful

Janey enjoys that end of Camino beverage in our favourite spot.

The cafe is a huge dance-hall type place with wood panels all round the walls. The seating is mixed from comfy armchairs and sofas to more upright dining chairs at the table further back. It has an air of old style and charm and is a place we have whiled away many an hour or five just sipping our drinks, watching the processions of people passing the large open windows. I can honestly say it is my favourite place in Santiago.

After finishing the Camino Portuguese we proudly show off our second Compostella

 and share drinks with our walking companians.

Alan (from the USA) Me (Spain/UK), Janey (UK) and Sussi (The Crazy Finn) 

And my prize at the end of my Camino number three - The Camino Primitivo...

21 Days to go

It is now just TWENTY ONE  DAYS before we set off on our next adventure - The Camino Ingles, followed directly by the Camino to Finisterre. 

How excited am I? Well excited enough to be making even more typos than usual as my fingers dance over the keys as I write this. 

So 'how are the preparations coming along?' I need to ask myself. Hmmm -I have to say that this year I am very relaxed about it all.

The flights from Barcelona to A Coruña were booked ages ago. From there we will get a bus to Ferrol, no worries there then. In Ferrol we have a small hotel booked already, where we will stay overnight before setting off at the crack of dawn in twenty two days time...

I bought new trainers before Christmas and have pretty much broken them in. They are exactly the same model as I wore on the previous three Caminos. New socks are in the wardrobe (not to self to wash them before going  - don't want too new)

Our Credentials have arrived at Jane's place, as have specially designed T-shirts and a cap for me- lacking a full head of hair I need extra protection from the sun. 

I've pulled my rucksack out a couple of times to check what I left in the pockets last year - pegs and safety pins (all important for drying wet clothes), a piece of string (well you never know?), some old receipts (now binned), my sleeping bag (not to self to air it before the big day) and assorted other odds and ends.

I have walked a bit for training purposes, in and around VnG, but probably not as much as I could have- still three weeks to do some more...

Me, taking a break as I walk along the coast to Sitges

 The coast walk from here to Sitges is beautiful and great preparation for the Camino

I'm still in two minds about sticks or poles (thank you to everyone who commented on my posts on Facebook), but am thinking of buying a cheap pair to put in my rucksack and see how it goes. 

Got a new phone so I can blog on the way- Have you signed up / joined the blog followers so you get first hand news of our adventures? - and a fairly new camera. So that's technolgy taken care of. 

I've printed off the guides from CSJ. I must take a look at them before we set off. May just upload the PDF to my phone actually -lighter and just as accessible. 

So far so good. As I think of anything else I'll add it to my list, ahh now there's a thought time to make another list.... 

Camino Food -ONE -Breakfast

At home I take breakfast almost as soon as I leap out of bed. This has never been so for me on the Caminos.

Firstly being up at such an early hour my stomach is just not ready for anything when I get up and ready myself for a day on the Way. A few mouthfuls of water have normally been more than sufficient. I have never liked hot drinks in the morning anyway so this really is not a problem. 

However after a couple of hours walking and usually about ten kilometres into the day's walk I and my walking companions are  usually ready for a bite to eat. It is then a bit of a mad panic to find somewhere to get said bite to eat. Often we would drop into a wayside cafe at the next village or hamlet, or at least sit outside and have a coffee and a small bocadillo. 

Or in Sussi's case a huge bocadillo (admittedly she did share a little of this with a wayside dog)

 Sometimes croissants adn toast were available and gobbled down quickly....

 Occasionally a feast has been laid on for us. This one we enjoyed after a long walk to Boadilla de la Camino, and all for just a couple of euros each. 

And in some of the Albergues breakfast is a communal affair and an enjoyable one with a selection of goodies to munch down before setting off, invariably this is served later than we normally used to set off, but at times we stayed and enjoyed the food whilst at the same time saying 'au revouir' to our 'overnight' friends. Occasionally if this was the case Janey and I would break out the jar of Marmite that we carried for such occasions, often getting inquisitive looks or questions from others

More often than not though, as I said before, breakfast would be on the Way at a generic wayside cafe, all very similar as these three last pictures show. The first was taken on the Camino Frances, the second on the Camino Portuguese and the last on the Camino Primitivo. 

Breakfast on the Camino Frances - 

Croissants for both of us, Janey has her morning coffee fix and I choose the orange juice

Breakfast on the Camino Portuguese

Coffees for Janey and Sussi, while I stick with my water bottle

Breakfast on the Camino Primitivo

A coffee and a small cheese bocadillo (half was wrapped and had later for lunch)

Camino Boozing

Of course it's really important to stay hydrated whilst walking and losing liquid naturally along the way. Mostly this is done by drinking loads of water. Whilst walking I find that I can drink between four and five litres of water. Now I can't carry all this on my back so filling up along the way is important, and luckily there are 'fuentes' all over the Camino to do this. 

Of course there are other beverages to tempt pilgrims along the way, and one of the favourites between my walking chums has always been the refreshing 'Clara' - a beer with fizzy lemon (rather than lemonade) mixed in it. 

And of course most pilgrims enjoy a tipple of the delicious Spanish wines you can find along the way. On the Camino Frances there is even a wine fountain free to pilgrims. 

From time to time a hot drink is on the menu too. Whether it be a hot coffee for breakfast, usually after a ten kilometre walk, in my experience, or a delicious hot chocolate at the end of a ling day's walking. 

 .. and of course the ultimate hot drink -a quemada- warming a slightly alcoholic, although most of it is burnt off! 

Now, have I forgotten anything? Ah yes, I mustn't forget the drink of the Asturias region - cider- delicious and locally made.

Feet

On each of the Caminos I have done so far (Frances 2010, Portuguese 2011 and Primitivo 2012) I have been very lucky with my feet.

Before setting off the first time for the Camino Frances one of my worries was whether my feet would stay the course. Primarily because I have a condition which means the nerves in my feet don't work well and send the wrong signals back to my brain. Luckily, although they were painful from time to time there was only one day when my right foot, especially was so painful that I thought we would have to give up the chase. 

Most people worry about getting blisters, and then invariably get them. I told my feet before leaving that on no account would I stand them getting a blister. this positive thinking in general has stood me in good stead. On the Camino Frances I had just a small blister during the first few days, and after that suffered no more. Some of the people we met along the way suffered horrendously from huge sole-covering blisters. 

Before leaving we took advice on what to do should a dreaded blister take up home on your feet. The best course of treatment appeared to be to run  it through with a needle and thread, leaving the thread hanging out of it to drain it. This is exactly the treatment my small blister was given by one of the Famous Camino Five -Nurse Sussi Astrom (who incidentally isn't a nurse) took to the task like a duck to water and dressed all our troublesome blisters when we were in Najera. 

Sussi dresses my one and only blister

By the end of a day's walk of course my feet were tired , and often swollen, but with a bit of TLC- cool water, showering and good rest they soon recovered. Being  a Reiki master i also showered myself in Reiki energy, and when needed offered it to others and their tired tootsies. 

 Jane and I, resting our toes in Molinaseca. 

Some of the rest of our group suffered more with their feet. Jane had a couple of blisters, as did Laila. I don't remember Kees complaining of sore feet at all, but he had walked from Amsterdam and hardened up by the time we joined forces. Sussi, however, did suffer quite badly, both from blistered feet and troublesome knees.

So, tell me if you've already been out on  the camino how did your feet cope along the Way, and what tips can you offer. IF you haven't yet ventured out but have a question or suggestion leave us a comment and I will get back to you. 

Buen camino

Best Albergues? Part one - Camino Frances

There are so many good albergues on the Camino Frances so it is really difficult to choose just one as the best. I found some were the best for some things whilst others were the best for other reasons. 

The first really good albergue that we came across was in Cizur Menor. The family run albergue had a great energy about it, caring hosts, a kitchen that was equipped well enough, plenty of natural space to relax and smaller dormitories with sturdy bunks and firm mattresses. 

At Puente la Reina we checked into a huge albergue with a pool -great for cooling off after a long days walk. The dinner was a shared pilgrims' menu during which we had a bit of a party. A great place if a little too large and impersonal. 

Santo Domingo de la Calzada felt like luxury after a few days of less luxurious places to sleep in. Leather sofas in the shared lounge, shoers to die for and a kitchen and dining room that just about had everything.

Belorado - Albergue los Cuatro Cantones - was perhaps my favourite all rounder. The hospitaleros couldn't do enough for us. The dormitory was homely and cosy. There was a garden that had a great energy, with rabbits and chickens next door and a small pool., and the evening meal was exceptional. 

In Ages we stayed in a tiny albergue which was in the attic with a low roof that reminded us of Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs. Theer was no kitchen but we ate in a small cafe nearby and loved the tiny hamlet.

In El Burgo Ranero we stayed in chalets -two of us in each, so quite and cool in the garden. The kitchen was well equipped and the hopistalera helpful and friendly. 

In Hospital de Orbigo we stayed in a delightful Albergue run by German hospitaleros. The welcoem was exceptional and the courtyard bountiful:

In Rabanal del Camino we checked into the UK run albergue where we had a great dormitory, hospitable hopsitaleros, a great shared dinner, no to forget the afternoon tea, and a communal breakfast before we left. 

Arriving at Mercadeiro after a hard day during which both Jane and I suffered from sore feet we were delighted with the albergue. The dormitory was small. the grounds were beautiful and the food was delicious. 

In O'Pedrouzo, our last night before Santiago we checked onto the 'Porta de Santiago' albergue, with a friendly and helpful hospitalero, sturdy bunks and excellent facilities. 

Want to know more about the places we stayed? 

All of them feature in more detail in my book -

  The Magic of the Camino 

Camino Flora

One of the things I really enjoy along the way is taking time to smell the roses. Now I don't mean this literally. What I love to see along the paths is the variety of flowers and plants, from gardens that have been carefully planted with specialised flowers and plants to the sides of the verges which have grown up with an array of flowers and plants that are so beautiful to walk among. 

In 2010 we walked among fields of poppies. (One of Jane's photos of these formed the cover to my book- The Magic of the Camino). This is my poorer attempt to capture the same view.

But everywhere there are examples of different species living along the way. Below are just a few of the ones I've captured on disc...