The Fisterrana

Having walked a few Caminos since my first incredible experience back in 2010:

• 2010 - The Camino Frances from SJPP            800kms
• 2011 - The Camino Portuguese from Porto      230kms
• 2012 - The Camino Primitivo from Oviedo       285kms
• 2013 - The camino Ingles from Ferrol             110kms
• 2013 - Camino Finisterra                               90kms (all distances are approx)

I now have a nice collection of Compostellas - one for each of the four Caminos walked over the past four years 

 

 
and then another for the final part to Finisterra, although this is not recognised by the church (so that should bother me why?!) and to give it its correct name is the Fisterrana.

The Fisterrana is much more colourful with a variety of symbols on it. I've trawled the internet to try and find out why the symbols are on there - what meaning they may have but so far have been unsuccessful.  If any one has any ideas please leave me a comment.

To get the official compostella in Santiago you have to have walked at least 100kms (or cycled 200kms) which is why so many people start in Sarria on the French route, missing out on so much of the full experience. 

To get the Fisterrana you simply have to walk from Santiago to Finisterre. 

For both collecting stamps along the way is essential to prove your journey. 

So far I have thus walked a total of over 1,515 kms walked over the past 3 years -not bad for a couch-potato! And next year ... well Janey and I have yet to decide...

 Celebrating in 2010 having completed the Camino Frances from St Jean Pied de Port.

 And in 2013 having walked the Camino Ingles from Ferrol

Slow down

This morning on my way back from Cubelles -a town just down the coast from us -in the car I passed an old pony and trap ambling along the highway. How wonderful I said out loud to myself, to travel slowly and see the world. This immediately threw me straight back to the Way. 

One of the great things about walking the Caminos for me is the pace. Living life more slowly allows me to think and to see the world as we pass each other. 

 I love walking the ways in northern Spain and seeing the beautiful countryside, and the ways that the Camino adds to it.

 

I love smelling the variety of smells from the delicate flowers (this year Jane was honeysuckle obsessed) to the less pleasant smells of nature, but nonetheless remind me what my nose is for. 

 I love to stop a while and watch and admire the wild, and domestic animals that fill the sides of the way.

Taking time to enjoy the company of new friends is something we (I) don't always allow ourselves in the rush of our daily lives. On the Camino meeting and finding out about each other is all part of the amazing experience.

Living life at an easier pace is one of the things that drags me (happily) back to the Camino year after year, and now as I rush round it's something that I am truly missing.


And to help me remember to slow down and make the morning last... in fact the lyrics fit the Camino quite well too-...

A very good place to start - Oviedo

Last year I walked the Camino Primitivo. 

Flying from home in Barcelona I left temperatures in the mid twenties to a chilly, foggy and wet Asturias at around 11º. This  was my introduction to Oviedo -cold and wet! 

For the night I had booked into a nice hotel in the centre, and happily after I'd checked in and came out to explore a while the weather had improved somewhat.

It is a beautiful city, with plenty to see before setting out on the Camino. Particularly the Cathedral of San Salvador, where I got my first stamp of the walk.

There are several statues around the city which are very lifelike. Including: the statue of la Regenta, and on the right market sellers.

And of course being Asturias I had to try the Cider. This being the first of many along the Way.

Only having the afternoon and evening (which turned back to rain) to look around I didn't see as much of the city as I would have liked. 

The following morning I set out in the dark from the Cathedral. According to the guides finding your way out of the city on the Camino was a difficult task. This wasn't so for me. There were plenty of markers, and it wasn't until I got into the surrounding countryside that I had any (but only small) difficulty in finding where to go, due to a new estate being built.

 And the only slightly confusing thing was the shell signs being the opposite way round to elsewhere on the Camino!

I am currently trying to set my journal, blog, memories and photos into some kind of order as I write my second book about my Camino Experiences... Watch this space for more info...

Soundtrack to the Camino

I've never walked the Camino whilst listening to music preferring to listen to the music of the birds, and the silence of the wildlands broken by the bees and my feet scrunching on the gravel paths below them. This is my soundtrack to the Camino  -Nature. 

The film 'The Way' had some interesting tracks on its soundtrack - but like I didn't find the film to be my experience of the way (gypsy weddings?!), nor did I find the soundtrack compatible to my experience either, although there was one James Taylor track on there which I did enjoy!  

In 2010 when we walked the Camino Frances Sussi (the Crazy Finn) played us an inspirational track by Dana Winner - The Conquest of Paradise (music by Vangelis) -This has always evoked the Camino for me with its inspirational lyrics and haunting tune.

Before we left home to walk the Ingles this year I woke the house with this tune. I cannot listen to it without a tear in my eye - such memories evoked -and thoughts of wonderful times on the Way

New Friends

On each of the Caminos I have walked I have made new friends.

 This year has been no different.

Sometimes the friends have popped in and out of my life in a day, but more often than not they pop in and stay, whether physically or just in my mind and/or heart. Occasionally I have met people along the way that befriended us to get us out of a jam - this happened when we needed water both on the Portuguese Camino, and again this year on the Ingles -Rosa refilled our water bottles when we were in need and wished us well.

This year we spent met and shared accommodation and much of the way with two delightful Italian women - Gabriella and Paola. As always language was no barrier, as we mixed English with Spanish and Italian. 

This year other friends included Tatania, whom we met in Charlie's bar- strangely I recognised her gentle Melbourne accent as it sounded so like a dear friend (Andrea). Like Andrea Tatania had a strong energy that I was drawn to. We didn't make any plans to meet again, but did so the next day, and who knows perhaps our paths will cross again sometime - I'd like to think so. 

Walking to Finisterre Jane and I met Birch, and saw him several times afterwards too. It was him that led me to a special site in Finisterre by his suggestion I might find it interesting.

IN Santiago we met Matt from L.A. who had no real plans until we suggested he stay in Europe, study TEFL and teach English -When we last saw hi that was just his plan. 

Also in Santiago we met Mike from California. We didn't get chance to talk to him much, but he too left an impression with me. 

But I guess I have to say my best friend from all the Caminos just has to be Janey. We have walked four together now, and loved almost every minute together. Thanks Janey ... Just wondering are you up for another?

Tulla - Veggie food par excellence

Walking the Camino as a vegetarian (now that's a real one and not a fish eater!) -Yes here I go again!! - makes eating well quite difficult.

IN Santiago Jane and I found a restaurant with a full veggie menu four years ago, but because of the slightly strange hours it keeps we only got to eat there this year. Unluckily we usually arrived on one of it's closed days. This year we were in Santiago on A Saturday and I was going to make the most of it- lunch and dinner!!

The restaurant in called 'Tulla' and serves both a vegetarian menu a swell as one for carnivores/omnivores & pescivores. IT is a family run place and the 'staff' are knowledgeable, friendly, helpful and speak English. Tulla is hidden slightly out of the way down a passage between two of the main thoroughfares, adn I must say it is so worth searching out.

Tulla - Entrerrúas, 1, 15703 Santiago de Compostela, A Coruña, Spain

It is open every lunchtime (usually when we are running round doing pilgrim-like things, but closed Sunday, Monday and Tuesday evenings. 

 

For lunch we had a variety of dishes between us including the filling and tasty lentil soup, the (tuna free) mixed salad and the pasta with vegetables, which was full of flavour.

For dinner we tried some of the other items on the menu, including the carrot soup, chick pea salad, deep fried (battered) brocolli, and the meat(less)balls. All of them were excellent, and polished off with gusto. I even got the recipe for the strawberry mousse from the waitress (who incidentally was very patient with a group of English 'gentlemen' who I would have soon found irritating, and did actually).

IT seems that I am definitely not the only veggie walking the Caminos and there is now a book out which lists the veggie options for the various stages along the Camino Frances. Hiking the Camino de Santiago, Camino Frances Thanks to Anna Dintaman Landis on Facebook for bringing this to my attention.

Camino Shock

I've been back a week now and am in a stage of what I think of as 'Camino-Shock'.

After such an incredible time out walking, with little responsibility, enjoying all that nature has to offer returning back to 'civilisation' always proves difficult for me. 

Whilst walking I am filled with energy from everything around. The views are stunning, the trees breathing beside the way pour their energy into me. The general beauty around raises me up physically and spiritually. Jane and I have often spoken about how we feel taller when walking in the wild-lands of the Camino.

I invariably connect with a greater power whilst walking, and this tiem for me this was most powerful in Finisterre.

 

The like-minded people we meet along the way make me feel part of a plan, even if that plan is just to get to the next albergue, but usually it is much more than that.

The lack of induced thought, yet the ability to let my mind float away and wonder about everything from the smallest of things to life itself is liberating. 

Coming home I am excited and thrilled to see my family again, yet still feel slightly caged by the 'four walls' within which I live. 

During the first few days at home I experience a period of de/re-construction as I reintegrate into the places I am from day to day so comfortable in.  During these days I need to be held- not physically but metaphorically. Luckily I have a husband that is used to these post-Camino days and does this well.

For the first few days back home I need to feel the Camino experience I have just had, I need to assimilate where I have been and I need to come back to earth slowly. 

There is no denying - The Camino changes me each time I walk. It opens me to the world around and makes me even more grateful for my wonderful life than I was before I left.

Oh and on a lighter night (pun intended) it means I lose weight -only 4 kilos this year (not bad in eight days though!) and feel healthier and stronger afterwards. 

 

Camino Dreaming

Well, I've been home two days now and for both of those nights I have dreamt about the Camino.  Neither dream made a lot of sense, nor were they really any of the Caminos I have walked, but the walking was there, and definitely the Camino.  To say that the Camino is part of me is a bit of an understatement. Or perhaps I just didn't walk for long enough this time?!


I've also taken the dreams as a message to get down on paper (well in the PC's memory) my thoughts and experiences of the Camino Primitivo.  I have started to write my second Camino book about just that - The Camino Primitivo. So far just over a thousand words, but it's on its way.  Tomorrow I need to work on my children's book, so this new project will take the back burner, but that is just for a while. This summer I will complete the first draft of the new Camino Magic book and hopefully publish before the end of the year.... watch this space.

Although our journey for the year is over I will continue Camino blogging - with comments and thoughts about each of the ones I've done, and whatever comes up for me along the way. SO if you've been following me this far please don't give up now... the posts may not be quite as regular but I shall try to make them at least weekly, or twice weekly.

If you have been reading my recent posts please let me apologise for the typos and grammatical errors. I shall continue to blame these on the size of the screen on my phone, and to the tiredness and few drinks I usually took at the end of each day, whilst or soon before blogging.

Journey's End...

Sitting at home now trying to make sense of another incredible journey.  It'll take a while to assimilate all the memories and thoughts that I had along the way, and perhaps at the end of it there'll be another Camino 'Magic' book. For this year however I am working on a book about my walk last year along the Camino Primitivo.

The Camino Ingles was not as difficult for me as the Primitivo, but it did have some challenges. Food being one of the main challenges this time.- there seemed to be so little vegetarian food available anywhere, and so little awareness of what vegetarianism truly is - It's in the word guys 'VEG' ... no meat no fish!!! The Camino Finisterre too was not as much hard work as the Primitivo, although the long day was tiring and left us with throbbing feet at the end of the it, which soon felt better after a short rest.

The scenery on the Finisterre was perhaps the most beautiful I have encountered so far, with surprises popping up over horizon and round corners.

Neither route was very 'populated' with pilgrims, which (for me) was nice, and we did meet some wonderful people and made new friends. 

The albergues were as varied as always seems to be the case, from the most basic with just beds and showers to the well equipped and comfortable.  

Yes ... I still have plenty to think about ... and perhaps the one thought that's at the fore of my mind at the moment is ... what next? ... or was that it. Walking to Finisterre I wondered if perhaps I was reaching the end of my walking journey... my fifth and last Camino journey (I have a thing for Fives). I guess I'll know in the fullness of time. Will the Camino call and pull me back... Vamos a ver (as we say round here).

Staying in Santiago.

When arriving in Santiago there are a whole host of places to stay, whatever your budget or need. This is clear from just a few moments of wandering around the city.

For the last three years I have stayed in one of the properties of Fina Castro Riveiro.

Her properties are very central,  well maintained and clean. On arrival in Santiago I usually give her a quick call telling her how many of us there are and arrange to meet in Placa Cervantes, just up the hill from the Cathedral.  She then leads the way to a suitable flat.

This time we are in a three-bedded room with ensuite shower room. It's part of a larger flat and we have access to a well equipped kitchen. 

Fina presently charges 15 euros a night per person ( this has been the same for the last three years). The price includes a bed with sheets and blankets, towels in abundance and even shower gel in the bathrooms. 

Fina is a lovely friendly woman. She speaks only Spanish but gets by well with most nationalities. She will do all she can to make your stay comfortable.  This evening she has even arranged a taxi pick up for us outside the door for the morning to take us to the airport for our flight back to BCN.

If you're planning to arrive in Santiago soon and would like to stay in one of Fina's places leave me a comment and I can let you have her phone number and email address. 

Return to Santiago

Last night we packed ourselves a picnic, with a few things we had bought earlier on in the supermarket, and walked back out to the lighthouse point.

Finding ourselves agood vantage point we settled down on some rocks. From here ee watchdd thd sun gradually descend over the horizon. There were lots of other small groupings scattered all over the vliff edge doing the same. 

As we feasted on leftover pizza, olives, crisps and coconut macaroons we snapped away with our cameras as the sun set.

We were  little surprised that when the sun had gone down it didn't go completely dark. .. naive aren't we?  We'd even taken torches just in case.

This morning we afforded ourselves with a long lie in and didn't get up until 08:00, slthough Jane and I had been awake since six listening to the seagulls cawing loudly outside. 
Once we were ready we took a gentle stroll round to the bus-stop where we joined about another twenty pilgrims waiting for the bus back to Santiago.

At 09:30 the bus arrived and we jumped aboard for what we thought was going to be a three hour ride. In fact, it only took just over two hours, taking us round the beautiful coast for one last look as we left. 

We are now back in the same apartment of Fina's that we were in ladt week.  We dropped into Charlie's for a drink before lunch,  earlier,  then had a one course light lunch in the only veggie place in Santiago. 

This evening we will return to Charlie's for the obligatory G&T before going back to the veggie restaurant for dinner.

I'm not sure how much sleep we are going to have tonight as the barrio we are in is the barrio of Saint Peter and it is busy celebrating its saints day with mucho gusto.

Finisterre - the end of the earth

This morning we had a ge ntle walk into Finisterre.  Only about 18kms and all day to do it in.

Leaving last night's albergue we climbed out of Corcubión and followed the coastline , albeit up on high, all the way along to Finisterre. 

The last part of the walk was along the beach in beautiful sunshine.

Last night the hodpitalera suggested an albergue to us, and having checked it out on the Internet we decided that was where we would stay. It is called the Finistellae snd lives up to expectations. 

After dropping off our rucksacks and doing a lisd of washing (ah the glamour of the camino) we walked out to the lighthouse... to zero kilometres. 
On the way back I took a detour that the hirls didn't fancy. I went up and over the mount via an old church whrre the views of the bay were stunning and the energy vitalising. 

Wandering around the town I spotted a veggie restaurant which had vlised for lunches but let us in when I wailed plaintively about the lot of a veggie on the camino.  A delucious curried rice later I was a happy and full Pilgrim. 

We are now having a coffee on the seafront planning our evening's entertainment.  We are going back out to the lighthouse point where we will have a picnic dinner and watch the sun go down...

Corcubión

The walk today to Corcubión was spectacular. Only about 20kms but truly stunning.  Most of the way was on dirt tracks and through the local moors. 

We started with a bit of a climb ip past the wind turbines onto the edge of the mountain.

Breakfast was taken in a small cafe on the edge of the moors.  Coffee, toast n jam. Here we were joined by our new good friend Birch from thr USA. 

The path undulated over the moors before dropping sharply towards the sea. The views as we crested each ridge were breathtaking and although I have taken several photos I feel sure they have not captured the magnificence of it all.

The albergue we are staying in tonight is right on the seafront. ..beautiful view across the bays.

Tomorrow we will arrive in Finisterre and as usual I am having mixed feelings about the end of another incredible journey. 

And on to Oveiroa

Today has been the longest walk of this Camino visit. Today Jane & I have pushed ourselves to the limit and walked around 35 kms.

Last night kerri decided that her foot needed a break so ordered a taxi to bring her here. She also carried our rucksacks so today we travelled light.

A lot of the path today was on the road which made it hard on our feet, but the sights were well worth the trouble. At one point we came round a corner to see a huge lake in the distance... the best view of the walk so far.

The albergue we are in now (Horreo) looks beautiful and we have a small room but the services are lacking.  There are a couple of other places in the village that serve food so we'll check them out later.  Otherwise it could be a cheese sandwich for dinner.

Hopefully tonight my throbbing feet will chill and be ready for tomorrow's leg...

Santiago

Today walk was suite a tough one, not because it was long or over difficult terrain, but because my left foot was playing up.  Yesterday my foot started to give me a bit of pain but when I got up today it wss more or less fine. Then just a few kms into the walk it started to ache under the arch, sending shooting pains all up my leg. In order to keep walking I had to stop every few hundred metres.
Happily I can report that at the moment it is fine again.  A generous application of some pain relief gel and a good hot shower seems to have done the trick.

We set out early this morning to arrive in Santiago early-ish too. My foot prevented a very esrly arrivsl but nonetheless we still arrived around half ten. 

After quick celebrations in the square in front of the Cathedral we picked up our compostellas and had a coffee in Charlie's bar,  where we met an Australian woman from Melbourne (who sounded spookily like Andrea which was how I guessed where she was from) and a guy from LA.

We left our backpacks in the left luggage under Rosslea's care (also an Aus) and went to mass in the cathedral before calliing Gina to get one of her rooms for the night. This is where i am currently typing from now.

Santiago is very busy with pilgrims and luckily very warm. The sun has come out properly at last and I've had my usual treat of a chocolate rum truffle cake so all is well with the world.

Our plans are now to get ourselves a drink in Charlie's bar followed by a Thai dinner. For tomorrow we head to Finisterre. ..returning next Sunday for a final night in one of Fina's rooms before flying back to BCN a week today.

Day one to Finisterre

Leaving Santiago we found our way out of the city quite quickly and easily. 

Surprisingly we were soon in the countryside as the sun came up and we rose up away from the buildings of the outskirts.

A lot of the walk today has been through woodland and open countryside with gentle slopes to climb and one large and steep one. Arriving at the top I felt so full of energy it was incredible.  I even skipped part if the way down the next road.

As we got hotter Jane & I stopped to strip off our outer layers.  Kerri stromped off as is her want. We thought we'd catch up with her quite quickly but when we arrived at a cafe soms distance ahead and there was still no sign of her we asked a couple of Spanish lads if they'd seen her. They hadn't and we knew she was lost. Moments later Andrew called from the UK to say she'd called him. So we waited in the cafe for her to turn up, which she did a bit later.

We are now in Negreira and settled into a very comfy albergue. Kerti has spent the afternoon in bed resting her feet whilst Jane and I have been gallivanting around town.

Ad the albergue has a kitchen i am cooking tonight.

Tomorrow kerti has decided to take a taxi to our next destination whilst Jane and I  will walk and meet her there later on. We have suggested she takes our rucksacks with her so we can walk more easily an mire quickly.

Watch this space to see jow plans turn out....

Bruma to Sigueiro

Last night in the albergue was very toasty with the heating on full blast all night.

Dinner was a bit of a catastrophe as the salad arrived with tuna atop it despite my precise no meat no fish instructions. 'It's just tuna" came the reply until I told them I couldn't eat it without vomiting.  They suggested taking the tuna off the top. Same response from me. Hospitalero apologised profusely and sent taxi man off to get replacement. 

The road today was just that for a lot of the way..hard tarmac road - and hard on my feet. I had to stop for a while and rub in some volterol cream to get me to Sigueiro.  My left foot arch is just a tad painful. Apart from that it was a pretty easy 24 kilometres.  Animal friends have been in abundance today- from rabbits to huge dogs. All friendly.

We've seen the Italian girls a lot today which has been  great. They're going a bit further tonight but hopefully we'll see them in Santiago tomorrow.

We are now checked into the Miras hostel which as reported in the guides is basic but will be fine for the night. The welcome wasn't particularly friendly but then again they were busy serving lunch.

The town looks interesting enough and we're off out to explore in a minute or two.  Hopefully we'll find somewhere that serves some good veggie style grub too. All I've had for days is egg of one sort or another.

Ah the lot of a Pilgrim.

Happy Sunday from the Camino Ingles.  Xx

Now in Bruma

Yesterday we walked from Pontdeume to Betanzos much of the time in the rain as already reported. 

Despite the rain I really enjoyed it.  There were a few hills but nowt too worrying.  We almost took a wrong turn just outside Mino but a kindly driver who was passing stopped to put us back on  the right track. 

Last night we stayed in the albergue in Betanzos which only opened in May.  It is excellent.  The kitchen is still awaiting the full complement of necessary items but otherwise it really is the best.

This morning we left at 6:30 expecting a long and difficult day.  It has been long - about 9 hours on the road but not as difficult as the guidebook lead us to believe.  There was one particularly long steep hill to climb,  but getting to the top I felt energised and invigorated. 

We are now in the albergue at Bruma and it's started to rain again.  Luckily it stayed fine whilst we were on the way yet cool enough for it to be pleasant walking weather. 

This albergue isnt the same as last night's bug still very comfortable and we've got the heating on to keep us warm.  The hospitaleros are very friendly and helpful and are ordering our dinner from a local restaurant for delivery at 8:00. Of course there was the usual veggie problem but I think I'm sorted.

The signal here is poor so I'm hoping that this will upload ok. If not you'll not be reading it anyway.

Lost

Wrote a very interesting and informative blog last night about the walk from Pontdeume to Betanzos much of which was in the rain. But during upload it stuck and I ended up deleting it.

I'll update with more info later. We're just taking a little shoes off break as we are about halfway so far today. 

Love from M, J & K on the Camino Ingles.   

Ferrol to Pontdeume

Before the alarm even went off this morning at 5.00 I was already awake, having woken with a fit of the giggles.  Can a say start any better?

We were on the road by 5:30. Up before the sun. As we made our way out of Ferrol we followed the bay all the way round. It was beautiful in places but unfortunately as the tide wss out also very smelly in places too.

Before we knew it the time had flown and it was gone 9.00 and we were in Neda.  We found a quiet little cafe and stopped for coffee.

Up and down the hillsides we followed the yellow arrows snd shell signs.

Just before our destination of the day we psssed by a beach praia de Magdalena which looked beautiful,  but vring slightly tired by this point we didn't take advantage of its facilities. 

Coming into Pontdeume we had to cross an ancient bridge of 16+ arches. The town really captured me as we crossed the bridge, despite the fact that it had started to rain.  

Artivibg at the albergue we gound out it didn't open until 5 o'clock and it was onky jyst sfter one.

Finding a suitable bar we spent the afternoon hanging out with the locals. The girls filling up on voffee whilst I had a couple of beers.

We are now in the Albergue, which is very new and clean. Sadly it doesn't have a kitchen so ee are going to have to brave the wet Galician weather once more to find something for dinner.  I'm not holding out a lot of hope for a vegetarian option. .. could be tortilla or the such like again.  Ah well I know the camino will sustain me 

.

Arrival in Ferrol.

This morning we had a fairly early start after quite a late night what with Jane and Kerri's flught being delayed a tad.

Julue very kindly dropped us off at BCN airport where once again the flight was delayed by half an hour or so.

The flight was pretty much uneventful although there was quite a bit of turbulence. Arriving in a cold and very wetFerrol we picked up our backpacks and checked out the taxi price, but decided that 65 euros was a little too steep and caught the bus instead.  At 7.45 euros each it was clearly the better choice.

Finding our hotel for the night was a piece of cake with the gps on my phone.

The hotel Silva has turned out tobe a very good find with a comfy room and delightfully helpful staff. They even offered breakfast at 5 in the morning which is when we intend to hit the road.

We have had a wander round Ferrol and it really isn't as bad as some of my students suggested.  We have sussed out where we need to go in the morning;  had coffee in an old UK double decker bus and just has falafel for dinner. We are now settling down for the events evening... getting into the old Camino routine....

We leave tomorrow

The preparations are almost complete. 

The Tres amigos are about to embark upon a Camino Ingles  Adventure...

Jane, me & Kerri

 The flights are booked and we're checked in with boarding cards ready to fly.

Jane & I in 2010 on the second leg of our journey -flying to Leon...

 Tonight Jane and Kerri arrive from England into BCN for our flight back out tomorrow to A Coruña.

In the morning Julie is taking us to the airport and we begin our latest adventure. Tomorrow we will be spending the night in Ferrol ready to start walking THE CAMINO INGLES on Thursday.

A four day 120km (more or less) trip from Ferrol to Santiago.

After that we head out for Muxia & Finisterre.

Thank you for following me and my blog so far - I hope  you'll stay with us on THE WAY.

Kerri & Jane are walking to raise money for the Young Epilepsy charity after Jane's niece was recently diagnosed with the condition turning her world upside down. If you feel able to contribute just a little please go to Kerri's Just Giving page 

 http://www.justgiving.com/Kerri-Holder

Thank you

My next post will be from the City of Ferrol as we make final preparations for an early morning start.

Packing

With just two days before we set out on the Camino Ingles I have got round to sorting out what I want to take with me. 

Ever since our first foray onto the Camino Frances I have understood the importance of packing sparsely and only taking what I really need. Carrying my home on my back for a couple of weeks I will only be taking the essentials  Each year I seem to be able to pare this down a little more each time.

Our first year climbing over the Pyrenees with heavy rucksacks I cursed the fact that I had brought so much, although in reality I hadn't. In Roncesvalles though we both dropped off the special water bottles we were carrying in favour of a plastic one (which incidentally went all the way with me, filling up daily) and a few other necessary bits and pieces.

This year I think my rucksack will be the lightest ever - no sleeping bag this year -just a fleecy liner. Everything else seems to fit in much easier.  My list of essentail items is quite small, thankfully, and I'm more or less ready to go.

Tomorrow Jane and Kerri arrive from Blighty, and Wednesday morning we will be off to Barcelona airport, thanks to Julie, for our flight to A Coruña ...excited --- oh yes, just a little bit... 

Camino memories

and souvenirs... 

In my mind I carry a whole headful of Camino memories, which can pop up at any given moment -I only have to hear something, smell something or see something reminiscent of my time on the Camino an I am almost there again so strong are some of the memories. after walking the Camino Frances the Camino was imprinted on me so deeply it is something I shall never be able to shake off, nor ever want to. 

Of course I also have a PC laden with photos of the Caminos I have done, many of which I'v shared on her adn Facebook and other sites. Other people's photographs are my memories too. I only have to see a familiar place on almost any site, or even on the TV and I am there gain enjoying the expeiernce. 

Then there are the array of badges I have been collecting as I wander the way. Unfortunately some of them were on my cap and thus lost when I left it on a bench towards the end of the Camino Frances .

I also carry a permanent reminder of my days on the Camino Frances etched on my ankle. 
When we got to Santiago, having walked the 800 or so kilometres we (my sister in law, Jane and I) wanted to have a permanent record of our achievement and got ourselves tattoos on our ankles: 

I also decided to turn my journal into a permanent memory too and made it into a book recording our experiences. This for me was another incredible achievement. 

If you'd like a copy it's available at

                             http://www.lulu.com/spotlight/HouseofTulstig 
in e-book format or paperback. For the month of June 50% of all proceeds are going to the Epilepsy charity for which Jane and Kerri and walking this time...

  http://www.justgiving.com/Kerri-Holder.